If you’re starting to get interested in watches or horology in general, don’t go to the internet for help. The internet is full of so much disillusioned and financially desensitized misinformation that’s of no value to you. You’ll see articles talking about how $10,000 for a beginning watch collection is cheap – or how you shouldn’t waste your time with certain brands over others because they’re not truly “horologically authentic.”
Jump To “Basic Elements of A Watch Collection:“
Casual Watch | Sporty Watch | Storage | Straps | Tool
Jump To “Collection Examples:”
Rolling With It | Design Forward | Going Retro | Outdoorsy | Attention Seeker
The watchfam is intrinsically toxic and if you’re going to get into watches you need to see that poison for what it is when you immediately encounter it. I’ve been in a lot of collecting niches over the years and watch collecting has been the most unique. Truly fulfilling watch collecting punishes ignorance and rewards research and introspection, but that gets complicated when you’re not necessarily researching or introspecting the right way.
If you’re starting to build your watch collection and you’re thinking “what can I buy that will impress other watch collectors?” Stop. Just stop that line of thinking. Burn you cash and throw the ashes in the ocean if that’s how your thought processes is flowing. If you don’t know how to buy what you like to make you (and only you) happy, then building a watch collection isn’t for you.
Just imagine if you went to a restaurant with a group of people and ordered something to eat that you thought would impress everyone else at the table. It’s your food – order whatever you want. It’s your wrist – buy whatever watch you want. The most fulfilled and happy watch collectors I’ve ever met are the ones who didn’t give a damn what anyone else thought about what was on their wrist.
With that said, the toxicity of preconceived notions for watch collecting are usually always financially based. By that I mean “if you can’t afford [whatever watch] then it’s not worth starting a watch collection” or “If [whatever watch] is all you can afford, then your collection is no good. You’ll need to scale up.” With this concept in mind, one’s budget becomes inflated with “how good” of a watch collector they are (i.e. if you’re budget is too low, your collection is bad). This is the wrong way of thinking.
To illustrate the absurdity of qualifying one’s watch collection to their budget (and the even more nefarious instance of qualifying their worth as a collector to the brands in the collection), I’m going to show you that for $200 or less you can build an incredibly fulfilling watch collection – a collection you can be proud of if you just throw away the notion of appeasing other people’s taste and focus on what you want. $200 is still a lot of money, but we’re talking everything you would potentially need if you were just looking to test out the waters.
Common Questions About Watch Collecting
What should a watch collection have?
There are 5 essential items that a watch collection should have: an everyday watch, a sporty or weekend watch, a watch box or tray, some additional straps, and a strap changing tool.
Is a watch collection a good investment?
No – there are very few watches that represent strong investments. We generally only tell people that Rolex timepieces represent good investments. However we also don’t recommend watches as an investment given the volatility and unpredictable nature of the industry.
How does watch collecting work?
The concept of watch collecting is based on the notion of building a suite of watches and watch paraphernalia that represent something you’re interested in. Whether that’s as a complement to your fashion or as a peripheral collection to your love of aviation, watch collecting is a very personal practice and is unique individual to individual.
What are some popular brands of watches?
On the expensive luxury watch end, you’ll see Tudors, , Tag Heuer, Omegas, Rolexes, Breitling, Cartier, and many other swiss timepieces. On the more affordable side of things you’ll see Seiko, Timex, Fossil, Casio, Citizen, Invicta, and even some microbrands.
We also generally recommend people buy new watches as opposed to vintage watches if they’re just starting to collect.
Let’s run through what I would constituter as the absolute minimum a general, well rounded collection would need – i.e. your “Watch Collection Basic Elements.”
Watch Collection Basic Elements
Here are the basics of what every collection should have at a minimum.
#1) Casual Watch
You need an everyday watch – I don’t care if that’s a huge honking diver or a 37mm three hander. Every watch collection needs what one would constitute as their casual, everyday watch.
#2) Sporty Watch
If you’re going to be hiking, or doing something sporty outdoors, you do need some sort of “sporty vibes” watch. Hell, even if you don’t do anything outdoors, you need a weekend watch of some type – something to differentiate your mentality in contrast to your casual watch. You can also think of this as your “weekend” or “vacation” watch.
#3) Watch Display/Storage
Please don’t just let your watches be strewn all over the place. Put them in a box, a tray, a roll – something. Your watches need a home. It’s how you show them respect. Don’t let your watches become clutter.
#4) Additional Straps
Whether its an additional NATO strap, rubber, or anything really. Do consider having an extra strap option or two in the collection. Strap changes can really change the wearing experience and make your watch feel like new. Plus strap options can offer many forms of expression through your timepiece.
#5) Strap Changing Tool
You may be able to get away without having one if you’re dealing primarily with NATOs and quick change straps so this one is optional. But in case you do need one – get one and learn how to use it (here’s Long Island Watch showing us how it’s done).
With $200 being our “all-in” budget, you don’t necessarily have to buy all your essential components at once. The minimum I’d recommend if you were testing the waters with watch collecting would be to get a casual watch and some sort of display or storage.
5 Example Collections
For fun I’ve built out 5 different watch collections for under $200 below organized by the type of vibe someone would be going for. Just to let folks know, the links I’m using below are affiliate links*.
Rolling With The Vibes | Total: $164
| Casual Watch | Timex Weekender | $40 |
| Sporty Watch | Timex Expedition Scout | $50 |
| Watch Display/Storage | Royalling Walnut Wooden Tray | $24 |
| Additional Strap #1 | Ritche Quick Release Leather Watch Band | $22 |
| Additional Strap #2 | Barton Quick Release Leather Strap | $28 |
I love this collection – we’re huge Timex fans here at TBWS. Very few brands can offer the horological history, design chops, and affordability of Timex and this collection here highlights that. The Weekender is our (ironically) everyday wearer – your casual vibes. It’s a clean, 3 hand quartz watch that’s sized to a modest but tasteful 38mm. There are a lot of dial and color options so certainly check out what’s available.
The Expedition Scout screams camping vibes – or just anything outdoorsy. Hell, do yard work in it – it’ll still be perfect. Polarized against the Weekender it’s not as casual and more “purposeful” in it’s appearance thanks to the more aggressive case design and slightly larger size at 40mm.
Your weekend and weekday watches live on a simple but beautiful wooden tray – keep it by the front door – next to your bed. Anywhere. You won’t have to fuss with a watch box and the wooden tray instantly gives your watches a home.
You’ll even have room for your two additional straps from Ritche and Barton. Both offer leather strap choices to help you contrast and change-up your wearing experience from the included straps with both Timex pieces. Explore the options and find one that speaks to you – both are quick change straps as well.
All in, you should be at around $164 give or take.
Design Forward, Clean But Bold Aesthetics | Total: $185
| Casual Watch | Skagen Signatur | $70 |
| Sporty Watch | Fossil “The Minimalist” | $70 |
| Watch Display/Storage | Oirlv Wood Flat Jewelry Tray | $30 |
| Additional Strap | Barton NATO | $15 |
Sometimes you want the watch on your wrist to be expressive of your love for design – watches can generally express themselves in two ways, the case and/or the dial. Your casual watch is the Skagen Signatur, an almost Bauhaus inspired dial layout featuring a carefree interplay between straight lines and circles, which adds a very easy to follow but unique aesthetic to your everyday vibe.
The Fossil Minimalist brings its design expression to play with the case – unique lug shapes and a very slim and aesthetically pleasing case profile set this design apart from the Skagen while also simultaneously complementing it in a collection. The dial being a bit more casual is what (in my opinion) makes it more of a weekend watch, however these two can be interchanged for whatever scenario or occasion you’d like.
Your Skagen and Fossil will live on the Oirly Wood Jewelry Tray, which features a wood design, microfiber interior, and clean miter edges to create a safe but also aesthetically pleasing home for your timepieces. Both of these watches can easily be dressed down with a NATO, so be sure to grab at least one of those as well (you may need to also grab an extra pair of spring bars since both these watches have quick-change straps).
All in, you’re looking at around $185 or so.
Going Retro | Total: $200
| Casual Watch | Braun 3 Hander | $125 |
| Sporty Watch | Casio F91W-1 | $15 |
| Watch Display/Storage | Holme & Hadfield “The Weekender” | $60 |
It’s not about the watch – it’s about the feel you’re going for. Let’s go retro – in this context I’m using retro to encapsulate the time period from the 1970s to the 1990s. With that said, no retro watch discussion can be had without Braun watches. Popularized by Dieter Rams for Braun, the classic and most memorable look for the Braun watch design didn’t come about until the 1980s with the initial advent of their wall clocks. Uniquely melding quintessential industrial design visual functions along with a sense of subdued playfulness, a Braun watch is ideal for anyone with an affinity for industrial design, contemporary art, and a retro look.
The Casio F91W-1 was introduced in 1989 at a time period where a quartz, multifunctional timepiece was a personality statement. The design is unapologetically “retro” and is most defined by the fact that it’s remained unchanged and still aesthetically acceptable in almost every context today.
Don’t change the straps on these watches – they deserve to be kept as is. but you can then take those extra savings and put them into the Holme & Hadfield watch display unit, which creates a unique combination of wood and display glass to give your retro watches an almost “art display” type of home on your desk, bedside, by the front door, or wherever you want to show them off to the world.
All in, you’re probably pushing it right to max at $200, but you can buy yourself some wiggle room if you’re able to get the Braun on sale or just during a time when the price is low.
All Outdoors, All The Time | Total: $192
| Casual Watch | Casio MDV-106 | $50 |
| Sporty Watch | Casio G-Shock DW-9052-2V | $60 |
| Watch Display/Storage | OARIE Leather Valet Tray | $17 |
| Strap Changing Tool | Barton Spring Bar Tool | $11 |
| Additional Strap #1 | Ritche Quick Release Leather Strap | $22 |
| Additional Strap #2 | BluShark Seat Belt Nylon Watch Strap | $32 |
You don’t like dress watches – that’s awesome because your collection doesn’t need anything remotely resembling a dress watch. For everyday wearability you cannot beat the Casio MDV-106 (aka the “Duro”). It’s built on the classic dive watch format – highly legible three hands, raised lumed markers, dive bezel, and a reliable case. The Casio MDV-106 is ideal as your everyday wearer since you can easily (if you want to) swap out the rubber strap and throw it on either a leather strap or a NATO to make it aesthetically appropriate for whatever occasion you need it for.
Pure nuts and bolts with a no-nonsense “throw whatever you got me at” design, the Casio G-Shock DW-9052-2V is THE ubiquitous weekend/outdoor watch. Multi-functional, bold look, nearly indestructible case design, your collection will be all the better for having it.
No-nonsense watches deserve a no-nonsense home. The OARIE Leather Valet Tray is the perfect place to keep your Duro and Casio DW-9052 since its just a piece of synthetic leather that’s joined together with button snaps to create a tray for your watches as well as your extra straps and strap tool.
Playing your cards right here should put you in around $192.
Listen, I Just Want People To Look At Me – Alright?! | Total: $197
| Casual Watch | Fossil Grant Chronograph | $100 |
| Sporty Watch | Invicta Pro Diver Two Tone (30021) | $50 |
| Watch Display/Storage | NEX 6 Slot Watch Box | $25 |
| Strap Changing Tool | Barton Spring Bar Tool | $11 |
| Additional Strap #1 | Barton Watch Bands – Ballistic Nylon Strap | $12 |
Just wanting to be seen is totally fine – you don’t have to want anything other than that as long as you’re honest with yourself about it. “I want a watch that will make me look good and catch people’s attention.” While there are multiple ways of interpreting that, I opted to interpret these as flashy watches or those that would potentially impress other non-watch people.
With that definition you need a chronograph – multiple dials and hands always catch other people’s attention and can generally bring an “interesting” vibe to your overall look. The Fossil Grant Chronograph fits the bill really well as your casual watch by being bold, intricate, but also approachable enough to be worn everyday.
Two-tone is always eye catching – in this context the Quartz Invicta Pro Diver 30021 is two tone, beautifully blue, and larger (44mm) than the typical pro diver 89260B, which will give it much more presence and bling-factor on your wrist. Be sure to get a solid watch box (easily possible for under $30) that will create a display window presentation for your watches. Plus grabbing an extra NATO would be smart since the Invicta will look fantastic on a NATO.
All in, you should be at $197. Invicta and Fossil watch prices tend to get pretty low at times so getting below even this number is very much possible.
Final Thoughts
$200 is a lot of money, but in the world of watches it actually isn’t much. However there is no true connection between what you can spend and how happy you are with your watch collection. My first automatic Seiko SNK is still in my collection and it brings me more joy than other watches I’ve had which costed me 10x what I paid for the Seiko (about $70). Buy with your heart and you can’t go wrong.
Co-Founder and Senior Editor
Kaz has been collecting watches since 2015, but he’s been fascinated by product design, the Collector’s psychology, and brand marketing his whole life. While sharing the same strong fondness for all things horologically-affordable as Mike (his TBWS partner in crime), Kaz’s collection niche is also focused on vintage Soviet watches as well as watches that feature a unique, but well-designed quirk or visual hook.
What a great concept- buy what you like and don’t blow a ton of cash! Thanks again for continuing to be the sensible watch site for enthusiasts who need to hear the truth about this wacky hobby. And keep those pods coming!
Tommy:
Folks need to need to understand that a good watch collection isn’t a reflection of your budget – it’s a reflection of whatever the hell someone likes, which has become a tough concept for folks to grapple with it seems. Thank you for the kind words and for also enjoying the podcast – recording the show with Mike is the best part of my weekend!
-Kaz
Absolutely loving the article and attitude. Key message really is buy and wear what you like. Also a big plus that you don’t back off from the Quartz pieces. Even after being in the hobby for more than a decade, reading this just feels right.
Thanks and keep up the great work.
Marko – thank you for the kind words on the article. Honestly with a topic like this we really felt that people really just needed something real (and logical). As an enthusiast group, the watchfam as a whole has normalized some really odd ideas on what it means to start a watch collection. Also, I’ll sing the praises of quartz watches all day long. Thank you again!
-Kaz
A one watch collection should be considered as well. Many here could be suitable.
The part you are missing though, and the reason most of these lower priced pieces don’t get any love from those who you might consider “watch snobs” is asset value. Human time is the hardest asset and the watches in the article take barely any to be produced. Even most are just copies of other brands and their great engineering achievements. I’m not saying that they don’t have their place, but they are really just toys, not to be admired. It’s a throw away world out there, but it doesn’t all have to be. Buy something you can pass on.
In my collection, I have both a Casio MDV-106-1A, approx £45 and a CASIO MRW-200H-1BVEF, approx £25 in my collection. The former I wear on Sunday cycle rides and the latter when playing in the sandpit at a local park with my grandson. In due course, he can inherit both of these 🙂
I love this article as the antithesis to the collection under multiple-thousands of dollars lists, because you can find quality that’s affordable, relevant to horology, exhibits personal style and fun. Snobbery be damned.
My picks for the under $200 2 watch collection would work in an automatic and has options:
Watch 1: Orient Bambino, which has many models that straddle the casual-dress line well. Some models like FAC00004B0 you can get for $120 (joma) or splurge on FAC00009N0 $136 (amazon)
Watch 2: G-Shock DW5600, readily available online many places for $45 or the Casio Duro for $50, depending on your style.
That leaves between $15-35 for display or storage, if you want.
Thanks again for the article!
DM:
Thank you for the kind words on the article! We always try to honestly just let folks know that watch collecting isn’t about budget flexing, it’s about cutting through the BS to find what you like and that’s expressive of something important to you (which is so hard for folks to do given how much noise there is in watch collecting right now).
Wow – a bambino with a Duro would be such a fulfilling and well-rounded two watch collection. That is a solid pairing with a decent amount of money left over for a cool display tray or maybe some NATOs for the Duro.
Thank you!
Your everyday job should determine your everyday watch. My current collection has 20 watches that are cheap and can survive the rigors of my job. As I only wear these watches once a month, they will still look great to average in 10 years.
With this base I have started collecting watches that cost $200 or a little more. Though $500 is my maximum.
Ironically I have found that buying used watches has brought me the best bang for my buck.
First used watch I bought for $160 UDS sells new for $200 more. Second at $60 will only appreciate in price as it has never been worn ($85 b4 discount). The 3rd is a true historical time capsule. Bought for a song. Number 4 is at least 2X what I paid for it.
Actually going to the jewelry shop where I bought my used watches today for a strap exchange. Need to get a strap exchange tool…LOL. ACTUALLY need a battery exchange so not a wasted trip.
So my future watch upgrades include a strap changing tool and a watch display.
Very nice post… I’ll start my own collection next months and you give me a good ideas. Any other post between 1500$ – 2000$?
I did not start out intending to have a watch “collection” I’ve always loved watches. What I had was more of a watch graveyard. But at one point I missed having them. I had 7 non working watches. A gift for Christmas as a freshman . The first watch I bought myself out of high school. My fancy 2 tone Chrono I got when I decided a needed a dress watch. The watch the kids bought me for my birthday. The one I just decided to treat myself to that was in the department stores Jewelry case. That late night shopping channel purchase because it had a sapphire crystal and my work had a habit of scratching up anything I wore there. So I got them all repaired. Bought myself a nice case. Decided after all these years “Dad” could treat himself to a few watches here and there. So off to eBay, Amazon, ShopHQ, Aliexpress and bought what I like. So today I have 2 Seikos, a Dakota, 2 Timex, 2 Fossil, a Nautica, a Skagen, a Technomarine, a Calvin Klein, a Adee Kaye, a Jacques Lemans and a Pagani Design. One snapshot of my watch box and the snobs would surely rip my collection to shreds. But I’m happy and that’s all that matters.
One thing to consider is that all of these watches are depreciating assets. I have and love many inexpensive watches, but I bought myself a few nicer watches too that have increased in value. Not only do I get to wear my Omega or vintage Rolex but if I want to sell them I will actually make money, it’s a smarter buy. Also, consider Seiko, some really great inexpensive options on eBay, and I think a great way to start your collection.
The issue I have with the concept of a watch as an appreciating asset is you also have to factor in the maintenance and security, a Rolex will need an $800 service every few years and you will need to insure it, so although you’re probably “up” overall, it’s a bit of a stress (for me), not sure I’d like $10k on my wrist walking through some of the neighbourhoods where I work!
The second thing is precious few watches actually do appreciate in value, almost all loose money. There is the concept of value retention (eg my Omega has only lost 20% of its retail price), but 20% of $5,000 is an awful lot more than I’d lose if I bought my entire collection again, twice!
Not knocking people to maintain and preserve horological assets, in fact they’re helping the future vintage collectors, but for me I get a smug satisfaction wearing my F91W and seeing my kids investments grow, safe, in a bank, where I can’t trash it.
As the TBWS motto goes; watches are stupid, man!
Being a fellow fan, what can you tell me about Timex? Are they still in production? Who makes them? Where are they made? The Amazon pages state they are made in the Philippines. I know that back in WWII Timex was associated with Ingersoll. Ingersoll made the proximity detonators for the 250Lb. to 1000Lb. bombs for the Allies. Because I’m from the area, I know that Ingersoll made timepieces through the Waterbury Clock Company, later the United States Time Corporation, then Timex. (They used to have 3 museums in the same bldg., Timex, Ingersoll, and Thor Heyerdahl.) I lost touch with Timex when I went into the military and I could no longer test watches for them.
This is the best watch collecting facts I have seen. Thank you for being so blunt . I personally believe I have one of the most awesome watch collections in the world. And the truth is it’s a huge collection, there are very nice watches in my collection, I have a Breitling ( my dad’s, passed on to me when he passed away in 2019). It’s the only watch I didn’t buy or my wife didn’t gift me. Beyond my dad’s watch there is no watch in my collection that cost over$350. And that’s even me trying to sound like I have money to spend because after that one it’s mostly fossil and timex watches. So why is my collection so amazing. I am a die hard hockey fan and pittsburgh is my team. Other than my dad’s Breitling every watch I own is pittsburgh penguins theme. The one I paid 350 for is numbered to 35 . I have number 1 of 35. And I bought it at the arena in Pittsburgh. And it’s made by . Wait for it….. Seiko. But it’s limited and even cooler the details on the face are all made from a Mario Lemieux Stanley cup winning game worn skate blade . 35 watches were produced from one blade. Don’t care how it sounds and don’t care if it’s probably not really worth what I paid. It’s got a COA signed by Mario and it’s something only 35 people can possibly own. I’m my opinion, cooler than any Rolex lol. Anyway my collection is all together 26 watches all but 1 of my team so do you, get it cuz you love it and screw what some guy with a watch worth more than your car thinks. Truth be told I would never even consider trading my collection for 25 Rolex and Breitling watches. Just me but it’s what it is