At TBWS, we’ve admittedly been guilty of slightly brushing aside the release of Oris’ in-house Caliber 400 movement. It’s a heck of a machine but in the past, I didn’t personally see it rolled out in watch models that really resonated with me. That changed at Geneva Watch Days 2022 with the release of the Oris Divers Sixty-Five 12H Calibre 400 – the very first standard production Divers Sixty-Five model to feature the in-house movement. And if you know me all too well, you’d know that I’m just a complete sucker for a 12-hour bezel, and now you have to read my ramblings about this pretty sweet-looking “divers” watch.
To me the Oris Divers Sixty-Five 12H Calibre 400 seems less like a “diver” and more like just a really cool platform to expand the Caliber 400 to. Most will find the familiar 40mm case to be a sweet spot and if the line-up has given you dive-watch-fatigue in the past, this new model is a great travel-focused alternative. Thanks to the 12-hour bezel, it’s a straightforward way of keeping track of two time-zones without fiddling with a GMT movement. I also love the tuxedo black look behind the dial and markers. It’s straightforward, and I’m sure more widely-appealing than some earlier Caliber 400 models.
Speaking of the movement, the Caliber 400 has been central to Oris’ gradual climb upmarket. But really, they aren’t asking much more compared to what brands like Tudor are doing. You’re paying more, but you’re getting more. Even with the expansion of the movement in different collections, Oris still does offer a wide range of watches you can easily snag between the high-$1k to mid-$2k range. I don’t think they’ve abandoned the budget-conscious buyer. Plus, just look at that thing – it’s a gorgeous 5-day power reserve movement working diligently under that display caseback. And for those complaining about the bezel insert & water resistance, come on – if you’re actually diving, you should probably do it with an Eco-Drive or something more easily replaceable.
Oris Divers Sixty-Five 12H Calibre 400 Specs
- Case Diameter: 40mm
- Case Thickness: 12.8mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 48mm
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Movement: Calibre 400
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Strap: Leather or Stainless Steel Bracelet
- Price: $3,500 – $3,700
I’ve never owned a Divers Sixty-Five but this might be the first time I’m really curious about snagging one. It will be interesting to see if this formula expands across the Divers Sixty-Five lineup with different color options and perhaps even sizing options. We’ve already seen Hodinkee collaborate with Oris to pair this movement with a 38mm case – so we know that can be done. And while the price may be tough, I see this as Oris really rolling their sleeves up to take the fight to brands like Tudor and some are even calling this a BB58 killer already. That’s a bold statement. Either way, I’d love to spend some hands-on time with this one. Maybe we can snag a sample for a review on the site in the future.
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.