Hamilton announced the release of the Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm back in November, a remake of their US military field watch from the 1960s (learn more about Hamilton’s History in watchmaking). Initially only available in Japan, the Khaki Field Mechanical came stateside earlier this year. As with most watch releases, I came across photos while scrolling through Instagram and it stopped me dead in my tracks. This military reissue wasn’t on my radar, but I was intrigued!

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Common Questions | Specs | Case | Dial | Movement | Final Thoughts

Common Question About The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

Are Hamilton Khaki watches any good?

Yes – they represent some of the best offerings on the marketing today for easily accessible and high quality vintage inspired military watch designs.

Can you swim with a Hamilton Khaki Field?

No – while the water resistance is rated at 50m, it’s not advisable to fully submerge any water under 100m (especially those without screw down crowns).

What movement is in the Hamilton Khaki?

The Hamilton H-50 caliber, which is a modified ETA 2801 featuring 80-hour power reserve.

How do you wind a Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical?

Very gently turn the crown click wise (towards the top of the watch). You’ll most likely hear small clicks (or a winding sound) while feeling more and more mounting resistance. As this resistance begins to build that means you’re doing it right. Continue winding like this until the resistance forces you to stop gently winding. If you’re unable to gently wind the watch anymore, it’s wound.

Khaki Field Mechanical Specs

Case Dimensions38mm x 47mm x 9.5mm
Lug Width20mm
Case MaterialStainless Steel
Water Resistance50m
CrystalSapphire Crystal
MovementCaliber H-50 (ETA 2801-2 on previous models)
Power Reserve80 Hours (42 on ETA 2801-2)

The Khaki Field Mechanical, as you probably guessed, resides in the Khaki Field collection. The collection consists of military inspired watches that offer slight tweaks to the MIL-W-3818B specification. As a whole, the Khaki Field collection consists of 14 watches ranging in complications (day, date, chronograph) and aesthetics (dial colors and case sizes); not quite to Tudor Black Bay ridiculousness, but they are a bronze and tourbillion away from matching their SKU output. Pricing for the different models range between $395 and $1,795, with most falling under the 1k mark*.

After fully acquainting myself with Hamilton and the Khaki Field lineup, I was certain the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical fit the bill. Shortly after stalking the watch on Instagram, I made the purchase directly through the Hamilton Watches online store. A few short days after clicking “Buy”, the box appeared on my doorstep, ready for its initial unveiling. It was a little anticlimactic at first. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t taken aback by the small size of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical’s 38mm stainless steel case.

I’m used to big, bulky dive watches that range in size from 42-44mm. If you also prefer chunky dive watches, the smaller size may surprise you too. So naturally, when I first strapped the watch to my wrist, I had a little buyer’s remorse. The 38mm Khaki Field case just seemed a bit dainty. So, I decided to place the watch on my desk to periodically contemplate and admire from afar. After a few weeks, I mustered up the courage, removed the stickers, and strapped it to my wrist.

38mm Stainless Steel Case

Luckily, Hamilton increased the case size from the original’s 34mm to a tolerable 38mm for the Khaki Field Mechanical reissue. While the uptick in size may seem substantial, 38mm is still small by today’s standards. The lug to lug is 47mm, which is the same as the Seiko SRP, but the length of the lugs is about 1mm longer on the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical H69429931. The proportions work and create a completely different wear than the aforementioned SRP. It took time, but I grew to appreciate the condensed size.

The lugs are 20mm in width, which is perfect when compared to its predecessor. Most vintage military watches have 18mm lug width or smaller. But you’re in luck, having 20mm lugs means that the Khaki Field Mechanical will fit most of the leather straps and NATO straps you’ve accumulated over the years. Unless of course, your collection consists primarily of 22mm Seikos.

The Khaki Field Mechanical also has drilled lugs, which allows for quick strap changes. This functionality may go unused, since this watch was built for a nylon strap, but it offers versatility over inferior fixed spring bars. Due to the gap in the case and spring bars, one piece straps look better than their two piece adversaries.

Though the crown is signed with a Hamilton “H”, it doesn’t screw down. The absence of screw down capabilities limits the watch to 5 ATM (50m). Most collectors own a dive watch, which would be more suitable for any underwater activities. This doesn’t limit the usefulness, but I would err on the side of caution when submerging the watch.

The case back bears the Hamilton logo and name, in addition to “Swiss Made”, depth rating, model number, and “35X PSQ HPO”. I would have preferred the mil-spec numbers used on the original. A small quip, since more times than not, a one-piece strap will block my view of the case back anyway.

True To Form Field Watch Dial

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical’s black dial closely resembles its predecessor (with the addition of the Hamilton branding below 12 o’clock). The original also had a sterile dial, which provided an uncluttered look. The Hamilton name is noticeable on the current model, but doesn’t take away from the dial layout or its overall balance. Would it have been nice without the name? Absolutely! Does the dial look bad with it? Not at all! That is a matter of preference and possibly my self-proclaimed purist ideals.

The omission of a date window creates balance, a clean look with the numerals, and an overall nod to the original watch. If I had to choose between a sterile dial with date window or this configuration, my money goes to this configuration every time.

Now, let’s tackle that elephant in the room… aged lume. Many brands have experimented with faux patina to create vintage appeal. In my opinion, Hamilton found a nice balance and had a little luck on their side for the Khaki H69429931.

Only a limited amount was needed on the triangle hour marks, minute and hour hands, and the tip of the seconds hand. The faux patina is noticeable, but the limited usage makes it subtle. A successful reissue requires the balance of a vintage look that also provides modern capabilities. In this case, visibility at night.

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical takes on a completely different appeal in the darkness, a detail lacking in most vintage timepieces (as lume has a shelf life and dissipates after decades of use). While in the daylight the dial can be a little crowded with all the numbers and the minute track.

When the lights go out the lume on the hour markers and hands displays a cleaner, less cluttered look. My only gripe is that the 12 o’clock isn’t differentiated from the other hour markers; an unfortunate hassle for the foggy-eyed dad of a wakeful toddler in the middle of the night.

Hand-Wound Movement

Powering the Khaki Field Mechanical is an ETA 2801-2 (the most recent models are powered by the H-50, which is the same as this ETA except they have a very nice 80-hour power reserve). Most people are familiar with the 2824 used in a wide range of watches these days.

The main differences between the 2801 and 2824 are the 2801’s lack of a date window and mechanical only movement, both nods to the original. The lack of automatic functionality forces the user to interact with the watch on a daily basis, creating a unique bond that many avid collectors will appreciate.

If you don’t wind the watch, it will stop telling you the time. It’s kind of like feeding a Tamagotchi, except pure negligence doesn’t turn the Khaki Field Mechanical into a paperweight. Rest assured, the crown won’t turn when fully wound, preventing the wearer from over winding and causing damage to the movement.

In my short time with the Khaki Field Mechanical watch, it appears that the more frequently the watch is wound, the higher the accuracy. For the week of wear, the watch ran at +0.8 sec/day, well within COSC. The watch ranged from +2.7 to +4.7 seconds daily, with the exception of the day it ran at -8 seconds when I forgot to periodically wind.

I wouldn’t claim this watch is as simple as a quartz “Grab & Go,” but the lack of date window and big crown make it conceivable that you can set the time quicker than any day/date automatic watch. So if you don’t own a quartz watch, this could offer similar ease on the go.

Final Thoughts

Hamilton delivered a well-executed military reissue in the Khaki Field Mechanical H69429931. They replicated the vintage charm of the original and re-imagined it to today’s tastes. The final product is a modern field watch ready for daily wear. If I could make a couple minor changes, I would start with a sterile dial and use the military inscription format on the case back – both features that are present on the original. Purists may argue, “at that point do a complete 1:1 reissue,” which is a justified argument.

I just don’t believe this watch would have been as successful in the original 34mm case. The small size would’ve been an immediate deal breaker. Additional changes I might add would include a screw down crown and a way to differentiate the 12 o’clock lume at night. Those issues probably lie with DoD’s original MIL-W-3818B specs, not Hamilton, but I digress. Life is about compromises and I’m fine with trading these minor shortcomings for a Hamilton with a 38mm case and 20mm lugs.

The Khaki Field Mechanical MSRP is $495, which includes a strap (green NATO strap, leather accents, Hamilton buckle) and a soft gray pashmina. The green strap looks great, but I found it irritated my skin; bit of a bummer. The pashmina, on the other hand, is extremely soft and my wife took a liking to it. The overall reception from the #watchfam has been positive, with slight availability issues due to popularity. Hamilton isn’t limiting production; so waiting shouldn’t preclude you from enjoying this watch, which can be purchased through Amazon for under $400*).

For the money, you would be hard pressed to find a Swiss Made watch with military ties and as rich a history for less than $500. Watch brands continue to open their archives and tap into their storied pasts. I grit my teeth knowing the Swiss paid for it’s American heritage, but I won’t take this out on the Khaki Field Mechanical. I can put my patriotism aside and appreciate the watch in all its American military glory.

14 thoughts on “Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review”

  1. I enjoy the fictionally outrageous first names you assign to the brand owners. This is a watch that has my interest. I now own two mechanical watches that both have date settings, and this watch has a bit of appeal like you mentioned about being able to just pick it up after not wearing for a few days, wind it and set your time and move on down to other things and not have to set the date or wait till the next month when that date rolls around to start wearing the watch :). Great write up

    • I really enjoy wearing mine as an everyday watch with different leather and canvas straps. I would add anti reflection to the crystal, shorter lugs and at least 100 meters of water resistance. That would be perfection for me.

  2. Excellent article and review! The “Editor’s Note” was classic. This watch has been on my radar since I saw it in January. I have a larger wrist (8″) so I’m anxious about how the watch will look when I’m wearing it. But I’m a sucker for vintage military issued watches, and with Hamilton’s pedigree it’s hard to pass up. Again, great article. Thanks!

  3. Thanks for the side by side with the Turtle! I think it”ll be a great companion piece to mine. Nice write up man!

  4. I picked one up today at a local store in San Francisco. I got it cause it’s pretty much like my Dad’s 1969 Benrus – that’s too precious to me to wear out of the home. Mine is like pictured, but the crown has a very slightly different “H”. And did not come with a Pashmina. Otherwise, I love this watch.

  5. In writing a blurb about a Grand Seiko mechanical watch with no lume whatsoever and no screw-down crown, either, the watch, selling for about $4,000 U.S., was described as a “Platonic ideal” of a wristwatch by the author on the HODINKEE website. My first thought, was of this watch: similar size, mechanical movement, no date, but a huge difference in price. For me, this little Hamilton is also a “Platonic ideal” of a watch, except that this watch is a timepiece for real people who live in a real (and really bad) economy in our troubled times. In a way, this Hamilton Khaki Mechanical is an even truer “Platonic ideal,” because it tells time with reasonable accuracy, is easy (read: “cheap”) to service if needed, can be read in the dark when fighting cats or neighbors wake you at 3:30 A.M., and is accessible without financing at credit-card rates, to almost anyone.

    By the way: think about a screw-down crown in a manual-winding watch. If, as you recommend in this review, the watch is wound twice a day, think about all the wear and tear on the screw threads, the crown shaft, and most of all, think about the increased opportunity to damage the crown by cross-threading. Watch manufacturers from Seiko to Hamilton to Tissot, and on up the scale of price and prestige, all make watches with “push-pull” crowns that are rated to 10 bar or greater without the screw-down crown. It’s the seals, stupid (sorry, no insult intended – I couldn’t resist the alliteration). For perfection’s sake, a hand-wound watch should have at least an 80 hour power reserve and a power-reserve indicator on its dial, if it is to be burdened with a screw-down crown – but then, it wouldn’t have Platonic purity at that point, would it?

  6. It took awhile but I finally placed my order for this great watchmakers near perfect heritage mechanical field watch. I own over 50 watches and tell myself “no more” but this watch seems like an absolute must have. Great reviews by most watch aficionados simply persuaded me to step up and add just one more great watch!

  7. I’m disappointed at the reviewer’s unfamiliarity with standard sized watches. 38mm has been the standard for a heritage field watch for a couple of decades now. Before then it was 36mm. Before that, 34mm.
    I own this watch and have only two criticisms.
    1) The lugs are too long. This is to pretend that it is bigger than it actually is, something Longines are obsessed with these days. It is a great shame.
    2) The dial is just a touch too utilitarian. Just a tad cheap-looking. A half millimetre more paint on the (solid brass) dial would have made a huge difference and would have been worth a $30 increase in price.
    And I do not like the supplied strap. Thankfully that is easily remedied.
    Apart from that, it’s almost as much an affordable staple as a square G-Shock. 😊

    • I have since converted the supplied G10 strap to single-pass. This made a big difference in wearability. Now the watch rests flat against the wrist and doesn’t suffer from unnecessary bulk. I can see a couple of Maraca Zulus in my future.


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