I have to admit, a dress watch with an oversized, glowing moon phase wasn’t exactly what I expected to see from Yema. I’m still accustomed to associating the French brand with Superman divers, aviation watches, and the occasional vintage-inspired oddball. But the new Senans Grande Lune caught my attention almost immediately, and I think there’s a pretty good reason for that.
This is Yema’s first moon phase watch and the debut of its new Senans dress-watch collection. Given how much effort the company has put into developing proprietary movements over the past several years, I’m surprised it took this long to see something like it. And judging by the initial photographs, I think the design is doing a lot of the heavy lifting here.
The dial features an oversized moon phase display positioned around 7 o’clock, surrounded by a textured barleycorn pattern. There’s a lot happening visually, especially with the asymmetrical layout, but I like how everything comes together. Yema says the design takes inspiration from the Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans, an 18th-century architectural complex in France. That’s a neat reference, although the watch itself is what interests me.
The moon phase is really unusual. Yema used a stationary, three-dimensional moon made from solid Super-LumiNova, with a thin rotating mechanical component that passes over its surface to simulate the lunar cycle. Most traditional moon phase watches rely on a rotating disc, so this is a different approach. I’m curious to see how the display looks in person, especially once the luminous material is charged.
The stainless steel case measures 38.5mm across, with a thickness of 8.7mm excluding the double-domed sapphire crystal and a 46mm lug-to-lug measurement. There’s a stepped, polished bezel, brushed case sides, and gently curved lugs. To me, those proportions sound about right for a modern dress watch, although the relatively large moon phase should give it a different presence than the usual time-only offerings.
Inside is the CMM.22 automatic movement, based on Yema’s CMM.20 micro-rotor architecture. The additional moon phase mechanism brings the movement thickness to 4.7mm, with a 4Hz operating frequency and a manufacturer-listed 60-hour power reserve. You can also see the movement through the exhibition caseback, where Yema has opted for a charcoal-grey finish.
I appreciate the engineering involved here, especially considering the relatively slim case. Still, my interest in this particular watch starts with the dial. The movement helps explain how Yema arrived at this design, and I think it’s encouraging to see the company finding new applications for its mechanical architecture.
Pricing starts at $2,790 on a leather strap. A mesh bracelet option is also available, and the three dial variations are limited to 200 pieces each. In my opinion, that pricing seems reasonable for a proprietary micro-rotor movement paired with an unusual moon phase complication. It’s a competitive segment, though, and buyers have plenty of alternatives from more established dress-watch manufacturers.
For me, the Senans Grande Lune is an appealing departure from what I typically expect from Yema. I’d like to see the dial and moon phase mechanism in person before making any judgments about the execution. I’m also interested in how these newer movements perform over time. For now, I’m glad to see Yema experimenting with something outside its familiar sports-watch catalog.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.