I’ll admit, I didn’t expect one of the most distinctive mother‑of‑pearl releases this year to come from Yema. Or to involve a dive watch bezel. But that combination alone makes the Yema Navygraf Pearl worth a closer look.
The concept is simple and kind of wild: Yema expanded the use of mother‑of‑pearl from the dial onto the bezel insert. From everything I’ve read and seen, that approach hasn’t been done before. Even through press photos and coverage, the effect looks striking—a full sweep of iridescence that shifts with the light and turns a retro diver into something closer to a formal statement piece.
The base platform remains familiar. It’s the Navygraf case at 39 millimeters, stainless steel with brushed surfaces, polished chamfers, a coin‑edge bezel, and compact crown guards around a large screw‑down crown. It keeps the clean geometry that’s made this line so approachable. Water resistance is 200 meters on the Yema Navygraf Pearl.
Yema will offer two dial tones. The limited “Blue” version of 200 pieces carries more turquoise and seafoam, while the darker standard edition leans toward navy and violet. Both rely on natural variations in the aragonite crystal layers that form mother‑of‑pearl, so every bezel and dial has its own pattern. That small unpredictability is part of the appeal.
Cutting mother‑of‑pearl for a dial is already difficult work; forming it into a thin ring for a bezel insert takes even more precision. It’s a fragile material, and Yema clearly knows this watch isn’t meant for rough use. The brand positions it as a refined interpretation of the diver format, something to wear at a desk or dinner rather than on a dive boat.
The dial uses Yema’s Superman‑style handset with the arrow‑tipped minute hand, replacing the usual Navygraf obelisks. Indices, hands, and the bezel pip carry blue‑glowing Super‑LumiNova. It’s a subtle nod that the brand hasn’t forgotten the Navygraf’s tool‑watch roots, even if the presentation leans elegant.
Inside is the Manufacture Morteau 20, or CMM.20 — Yema’s own micro‑rotor movement. It runs at 4 Hz, holds a 70‑hour power reserve, and is regulated to –3 / +7 seconds per day. A micro‑rotor layout keeps the case slim at about 9.75 millimeters thick (excluding crystal), which helps the watch wear closer to a vintage skin diver.
Both versions come with either a brushed steel H‑link bracelet featuring a push‑button micro‑adjust clasp, or a perforated black FKM rubber strap. The Blue limited edition is priced at $2,549 on steel or $2,229 on rubber; the darker regular‑production model comes in at $2,490 and $2,190 respectively.
Yema’s decision to cover both dial and bezel in mother‑of‑pearl feels like a small but genuine experiment within a crowded category. It’s a reminder that refinement doesn’t always need to follow the same formula. Sometimes it just takes one unexpected material used with conviction. Not something I would wear but I really enjoy they approach Yema took here. It’s a beautiful piece I’d love to see in person.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.
Yema is not the first, Zelos did it some time ago with the Swordfish Teal MOP dial and matching MOP bezel protected by epoxy coating. It cost around $400 when released.