I think before really getting into this new Tudor diver, we just have to come out and say it again. Tudor is the brand that’s comfortable with taking risks and appealing to a base of vintage enthusiasts. And I think they’ve been leading that charge for quite some time. Today, Tudor has announced a new addition to the lineup of Black Bay divers—the Tudor Black Bay 54 in 37mm. That’s right. Just, smaller for the most part but very unexpected. This is something that Rolex would probably never do.
Inspired by Tudor’s 1954 reference 7922, the Tudor Black Bay 54 brings back a faithful 37mm case size with an in-house MT5400 movement that’s also in the Pelagos 39. Aside from the case, there are some modern differences compared to that original, most notably the ‘snowflake’ handset that has become a Black Bay signature across all of the watches spanning a bunch of sizes. Much like what Tudor did when the smaller Black Bay 58 was revealed, this new diver comes only in a simple black colorway with gilt accents.
Gone are the intermediate hash marks on the dive bezel (a very subtle vintage tribute), the red triangle marker at 12, and the “big crown” we usually see on the Black Bay divers. The Tudor Black Bay 54 features a smaller crown with a new design that looks just like what you’d get with an older reference 7922. Finally, Tudor is offering the Black Bay 54 with either a matching stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap—both of which feature Tudor’s tool-less adjusting T-Fit clasp. Oh, you’re probably here for all the neckbeard specs, measurements, and whatnot. Let’s get to that.
Tudor Black Bay 54 Specs
- Case diameter: 37mm
- Case thickness: 11.24mm
- Lug-to-lug: 46mm
- Water resistance: 200m
- Case material: Stainless steel
- Movement: COSC-certified MT5400
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Bracelet: Stainless steel or rubber with fitted end links
- Price: $3,850 (steel bracelet), $3,625 (rubber strap)
Personally, I’m not sure if I’m ready to give up my Tudor Black 58 in Navy for this new Tudor Black Bay 54. I mean, sure it looks great and the vintage sizing will be perfect for the purists. But it’s hard to tell if these new dimensions would really dethrone the Black Bay 58. It’s just that good from a style standpoint. Part of me also misses the large crown. I get the desire to match the original reference with the smaller crown but hey—Tudor is still sticking with snowflake hands and those aren’t original. Still, these are just minor issues I have with this and they’ll probably melt away once I manage to try the watch on in person.
Something has me feeling like this watch will be very, very hard to get early on. I’m ready for the madness. Also, it’ll be worth seeing what Tudor does with the Black Bay 54 in 2024—the 70th anniversary year of the reference 7922. Seems like they’re only just teasing the new platform now before likely going nuts with it in the near future. We’ll see. But right now, this pleases me.
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.