For years now, the TAG Heuer Monaco has occupied a pretty persistent spot in the back of my mind. I can trace much of that fascination back to its appearance in Breaking Bad, which introduced me to a watch that I’ve had a hard time shaking ever since. I’ve gone back and forth on the idea of eventually adding one to my collection, and even after all this time, it’s something I still find myself thinking about.
Recently, I had the opportunity to spend some time at Feldmar Watch Company in Los Angeles, a family-owned retailer with an impressive selection of luxury watches and a showroom that makes it easy to lose track of time. During my visit, I was able to get hands-on with the latest blue TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph, giving me a chance to revisit a watch I’ve admired from a distance for years and see how that fascination held up once I finally had it on my wrist.
The Monaco in Person
I’ve always liked how recognizable the Monaco is, even from a distance. There aren’t many watches with a case shape that distinctive, and TAG Heuer has managed to keep the basic design familiar through quite a few different generations. I’ve considered several versions over the years, although the newer blue Monaco Chronograph, reference CDW2181.FC8360, is probably the closest to what I’d choose for myself.
The Monaco dates back to 1969, and Steve McQueen’s appearance wearing one in Le Mans helped establish its association with motorsport. That history has always been interesting to me, even though I came to the watch through Breaking Bad. By the time I visited Feldmar, I’d spent enough years looking at different Monacos online that I had a pretty good idea of what to expect. And for the most part, the watch looked exactly how I’d imagined.
The blue dial immediately caught my attention. TAG Heuer describes it as an opaline finish, and the color was a little more subdued than I’d expected from the photographs I’d seen. I actually preferred it that way. Some of the images make the blue appear fairly intense, while the watch I handled had a more restrained appearance that I found easier to appreciate.
The silver chronograph counters are a big part of what makes this configuration appealing to me. They give the dial that familiar Monaco appearance, and the red accents add a little color without overwhelming everything else. The applied markers and luminous rhodium-plated hands are easy to pick out against the blue background.
I was also pleased with how legible the watch was. There’s a fair amount of information on the dial, as you’d expect from a chronograph, but I never found myself struggling to read the time. The proportions of the counters and the placement of the hands felt well thought out.
I’ve seen plenty of Monaco variations that I appreciate for different reasons. Some of the more traditional references are particularly appealing from a historical perspective. After spending time with this one, though, I still think the contemporary design is where my preferences land.
Case and Wrist Experience
The case was the part of the watch I was most curious about, and it ended up being the source of my biggest reservations.
TAG Heuer lists the Monaco at 39mm across and 13.9mm thick. Those measurements are useful, although I’ve learned that square watches can be difficult to judge from dimensions alone. There’s simply more case spread across the wrist than you might expect if you’re accustomed to wearing round watches of a similar size.
This version uses grade 5 titanium, with brushed, polished, and sand-blasted surfaces throughout the case. The finishing looked excellent in person. I enjoyed seeing how the different surfaces met, particularly around the more angular parts of the case. It gives the Monaco a lot to look at without making the design feel unnecessarily complicated.
The titanium construction was another detail I appreciated. The case has considerable visual presence, and the lighter material helped keep that from translating into excessive weight on the wrist.
I noticed the 13.9mm thickness, although it didn’t particularly bother me. I’ve always expected the Monaco to have a substantial profile. Given the shape of the case and the automatic chronograph movement inside, the height seemed appropriate. My difficulty came from the way the case sat against my wrist.
I spent more than half an hour handling and wearing the watch at Feldmar, and I kept coming back to how broad and flat it felt. The square shape distributes the case across a relatively large area, and I had trouble finding a position where the proportions felt entirely natural. It’s just the kind of thing that made me immediately think that I simply can’t pull off a watch like this.
That was disappointing, especially considering how long I’ve been interested in the Monaco. I liked the way it looked on my wrist, and I enjoyed examining the case from different angles. The actual fit was harder for me to get along with.
I wouldn’t necessarily expect everyone to have the same experience. Wrist shape/size and personal preferences make a considerable difference with a watch like this. Someone who regularly wears larger square or rectangular cases might find the Monaco perfectly comfortable.
For me, the concern was enough to make me think about how often I’d actually wear one. I could see myself enjoying it for an afternoon, although I had a harder time imagining it becoming a regular part of my rotation. I hadn’t expected that to be such a significant consideration going into the visit.
Movement, Chronograph, and Strap
The Monaco is powered by TAG Heuer’s automatic Calibre TH20-11, which features bidirectional winding and an 80-hour power reserve. It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and operates the chronograph’s quarter-second indication and 30-minute counter.
The movement specifications are appealing, particularly the power reserve. I tend to rotate through different watches, so having more than three days of running time available is something I can appreciate. During my visit, though, I spent considerably more time looking at the watch and getting a feel for its operation than thinking about the movement’s technical specifications.
I did enjoy using the chronograph. The pushers had a crisp, satisfying action, and I found myself operating them several times simply because the response felt good. That’s something I pay attention to with chronographs. A watch can have an impressive movement on paper, but the physical experience of operating it is what I’m going to notice every time I use the complication.
I also took some time to examine the TH20-11 through the sapphire caseback. Being able to see the movement is always welcome, and I appreciated the opportunity to look at it while handling the watch.
There are obvious limits to what I can say about the movement after a showroom visit. I can’t speak to long-term accuracy or reliability, and those would be considerations I’d want to research further if I were seriously thinking about purchasing one.
The black perforated calfskin strap was another part of the watch I enjoyed. It has the familiar racing-inspired appearance that works particularly well with the Monaco, and I found it comfortable during my time wearing it. TAG Heuer pairs the strap with a grade 5 titanium folding clasp and double safety push-buttons. I thought the combination suited the watch, both visually and in terms of the materials used.
I could imagine keeping this Monaco on its supplied strap rather than immediately looking for an alternative. The perforated leather looks appropriate alongside the blue dial and silver counters, and I didn’t encounter any issues with the strap’s comfort or its thickness. My concerns about the wearing experience were almost entirely related to the case proportions.
Wrapping Things Up
I should also spend a moment talking about Feldmar Watch Company, because the store was a big part of why I enjoyed this experience. The showroom in Los Angeles is substantial, with an extensive selection of watches to explore. I was impressed by the scale of the space and the number of different watches available to see in person.
The staff were incredibly welcoming, which made a difference during my visit. I appreciated being able to spend more than half an hour with the Monaco, taking my time with a watch I’d been curious about for years.
I’d recommend Feldmar to anyone in the Los Angeles area who’s interested in seeing a broad selection of watches in person. It’s also a retailer I’d encourage people to check out when browsing for watches online. As for the Monaco, I came away from the experience with a few things to think about.
I still love the way this watch looks. The blue dial, chronograph counters, and titanium case all work well together, and I think TAG Heuer has done a good job with this particular interpretation. The finishing impressed me, the chronograph pushers felt excellent, and I enjoyed the details of the movement and strap. I also left with some concerns about how the watch would fit into my collection.
The case felt a little too broad and flat against my wrist, and I had trouble getting completely comfortable with its proportions. That experience is important when I think about spending my own money on a watch, particularly one I’ve wanted for as long as the Monaco. These also aren’t cheap and go for $9,350.
I’ve reached a point in collecting where I pay more attention to how often I expect to wear something. There are watches I admire that don’t necessarily make sense for the way I use my collection, and I’m still figuring out where the Monaco fits into that picture.
Spending time with this blue model helped me understand the watch better. I appreciate the modern design even more now, and there are plenty of details I enjoyed that I hadn’t fully considered from photographs.
The fit remains a sticking point, though, and it’s something I’d want to revisit before making any decision. For now, I’m still interested in eventually owning a Monaco. I’m just a little less certain about what that would look like in practice. After all these years, I suppose I shouldn’t be surprised that I haven’t quite made up my mind.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.