In nearly ten years of running TBWS with Kaz, I’ve never reviewed a Squale. In fact, I’m not even sure I’ve handled one outside of a trade show setting. While Kaz owned one of the brand’s older GMT models years ago, I’ve mostly experienced Squale from a distance. That changed earlier this year when they announced the Squale Sub 37 Legend. On paper, it checked a lot of boxes for me.
The compact dimensions, vintage-inspired design, and overall approach reminded me of some of the same qualities I appreciate in my Doxa Sub 300. After covering the release, Squale was kind enough to send over a review sample, and after spending some time with it, I can say it’s a watch I’ve enjoyed wearing. So let’s take a closer look.
A Modern Take on Early Squale
The easiest way I can describe the Sub 37 Legend is that it feels like a watch designed for people who appreciate vintage Squale but don’t necessarily want to deal with vintage ownership.
That’s a simplified view, of course, but it gets at what makes this release interesting. Plenty of brands are producing vintage-inspired dive watches these days. Few have the historical connection to the designs they’re referencing. Squale’s identity has always been closely tied to dive watches, and the Sub 37 Legend feels less like a nostalgic exercise and more like an attempt to revisit one of the brand’s earlier ideas through a modern lens.
At first glance, the watch appears almost understated. The black dial is clean, highly legible, and free from unnecessary distractions. The old-radium-toned lume on the hands, indices, and bezel markings introduces a vintage aesthetic without pushing into faux-aged territory. I’ve become increasingly sensitive to overly aggressive vintage treatments over the years, and thankfully Squale shows restraint here.
What stood out more to me was how cohesive everything felt. The curved black bezel insert, the warm-toned markings, and the double-domed sapphire crystal all work together to create the impression of a much older dive watch. Yet nothing about it feels fragile or precious.
Small on Paper, Bigger on the Wrist
The headline specification here is the case size. At 37mm, many collectors are going to make an immediate judgment about how this watch wears. I understand the reaction. We’ve spent years watching dive watches grow larger, and even many modern “vintage-sized” divers land closer to 39mm or 40mm.
After wearing the Sub 37 Legend, I think focusing exclusively on the diameter misses the point. The watch measures 37mm across the case and roughly 38.5mm including the bezel. Lug-to-lug comes in at 45mm, while thickness is just 11.2mm. Those numbers combine to create a watch that wears with considerably more presence than the diameter alone would suggest.
The thinness is arguably the star of the show. Modern dive watches often feel like they’re competing to see how much steel can be stacked between your wrist and the dial. The Sub 37 Legend takes the opposite approach. It sits low, remains balanced throughout the day, and slides under a cuff without requiring much thought. After a few days of wear, the dimensions stopped feeling like a design decision and simply started feeling correct.
I never found myself wishing the watch were larger. The polished case also contributes more visual presence than I initially expected. Squale could have gone with a heavily tool-oriented finish throughout, but the polished surfaces catch light in a way that gives the watch a little extra personality without compromising its dive-watch roots.
The bezel deserves mention as well. Action is smooth and well defined, with positive engagement throughout its rotation. There is a small amount of play if you go looking for it. That said, it never impacted usability and never became something I thought about during normal wear.
The Details That Matter
The dial is straightforward in the best possible way. High contrast, clear handset design, and sensible proportions make this one of the more immediately legible dive watches I’ve worn recently. Whether indoors or outside in direct sunlight, reading the time is effortless.
The anti-reflective treatment on the crystal occasionally introduces a pronounced blue hue depending on the angle and lighting conditions. Some collectors love that effect while others don’t. I found it noticeable without becoming distracting.
The double-domed sapphire crystal also deserves credit. It captures much of the visual charm associated with vintage acrylic crystals while offering the durability most collectors expect from a modern watch at this price point.
Lume performance was similarly straightforward. The old-radium coloration may suggest vintage aesthetics first, but visibility after dark remained more than adequate throughout my time with the watch. Nothing extraordinary. Nothing disappointing. It simply did what I expected it to do.
One small detail I particularly enjoyed was the signed crown featuring the von Büren logo. It’s the sort of touch that many owners may never think twice about, but it contributes to the feeling that attention was paid to the entire package rather than just the headline features.
Living With the Squale Sub 37 Legend
Powering the watch is the Sellita SW200-1, a movement that has become familiar territory for many enthusiasts. My experience with it here was exactly what I hoped it would be.
Accuracy remained consistent, operation was dependable, and the movement largely disappeared into the background. That may sound like faint praise, but I mean it as a compliment. I don’t need every watch to introduce some novel mechanical solution. Sometimes reliability is the feature.
The crown action reinforced that impression. Winding felt smooth, setting the time was equally positive, and there was none of the grittiness that occasionally appears in watches using this movement architecture.
Water resistance is rated to 300 meters, thanks in part to the screw-down crown and solid caseback construction. While few owners will ever approach those limits, it contributes to an overall sense of confidence that suits the watch well. Then there’s the Bonetto Cinturini rubber strap.
I’ve worn a lot of rubber straps over the years, ranging from perfectly serviceable to immediately removable. This one belongs near the top of the list. It’s soft, comfortable, and conforms naturally to the wrist without requiring a lengthy break-in period. The familiar vanilla scent may not appeal to everyone, and it’s worth mentioning if you’re particularly sensitive to it. Personally, it never bothered me.
Interestingly, I never found myself thinking about alternative straps. Even with the somewhat uncommon 19mm lug width, the stock setup worked so well that strap experimentation felt unnecessary.
Final Thoughts
When I first saw the Sub 37 Legend announced, I expected to appreciate it on paper. What surprised me was how much I enjoyed wearing it. A lot of that comes back to proportion. The compact case, slim profile, and thoughtful execution create a watch that feels remarkably balanced. Add in the vintage-inspired details, strong legibility, comfortable strap, and proven movement, and the result is a diver that feels fully resolved rather than assembled from a checklist of enthusiast preferences.
The $1,750 asking price may give some collectors pause initially. After spending time with the watch, that number felt fair to me. The execution is strong throughout, and the watch never gave me the impression that corners had been cut to hit a target price.
More importantly, the Sub 37 Legend occupies a space that relatively few watches do. It captures much of the appeal of early Squale design without asking the owner to navigate vintage market uncertainty, aging components, or the compromises that often accompany older dive watches.
Eventually, this review sample will head back to Squale. That’s part of the job. Still, the Sub 37 Legend left a stronger impression on me than I expected. For a first extended experience with the brand, I can’t think of a much better introduction.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.