If you’ve been following the TBWS podcast for a while, you’ll probably know that Seiko’s pricing approach on certain high-profile re-editions is a bit of a sore spot for me. At this point and with the release of this new Seiko Prospex 1965 Divers SJE093, it might be time for me to let it go. It just seems like the days of getting a cool vintage-correct launch at an affordable price (like the SRP777) are becoming less and less frequent. But whatever you think about the pricing, this new Prospex diver seems to be a stale followup to the SLA017 62MAS re-edition from 2017. I just don’t get it. In fact, it looks like a flat-out cash grab more than anything.
No matter how you look at it, the Seiko 62MAS is one of the coolest divers ever built. I rank it right up there with watches like the Fifty-Fathoms and the original Doxa Sub 300 models. It’s the ultimate essence of the Seiko sports watch and I will always love the design. The new Seiko SJE093 aims to deliver something even closer to the original Seiko ref. 6217 diver from 1965, mostly in the way of case sizing. In that regard, I guess this is cool—seeing as how many took issue with what was effectively a 40mm case size on the last pricey re-edition, the SLA017. What puzzles me here is Seiko’s movement choice to bring the case dimensions down “drastically” according to some watch bloggers. Come on guys. Drastically? Really?
The last re-edition SLA017 was powered by the 8L35 (essentially a non-branded Grand Seiko 9S55) and was priced at basically $4,000 USD. Fine. And that movement/run even had its own embarrassing problems, which Klein Vintage Watch documented here. But to achieve the new vintage correct dimensions (now 38mm diameter x 12.5mm thick), Seiko went with a slimmed down version of the 6L35 called the 6L37. For reference, the 6L35 was introduced in 2018 with a limited edition Presage model … a $2,200 USD watch.
So, let’s keep track of this. Seiko moved from an 8-series movement down to a 6-series movement to get the watch down to a 38mm case diameter with a 12.5mm case thickness—”drastically” different from the 39.9mm case diameter x 14.1mm case thickness, of the previous SLA017. But to top it off, they are now charging what’s basically the same price they did for the 8L-equipped SLA017 in 2017—€3,700 EUR or $4,033 USD at the time of this release. Nice one, Seiko.
Editor’s note: Some readers are reporting an announced USD pricing of $3,500, which is not all that better.
Seiko Prospex 1965 Divers SJE093 Specs
- Case diameter: 38mm
- Case thickness: 12.5mm
- Lug-to-lug: 46mm
- Water resistance: 200m
- Case material: Stainless steel
- Movement: Seiko 6L37
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Bracelet: Seiko silicone, Tropic-style
- Price: €3,700, but also $3,500 USD
Back when Tudor released the wildly successful Black Bay Fifty-Eight back in 2018, they developed a new slimmed down in-house movement called the MT5402. And if memory serves me right, they charged even less for the Fifty-Eight than they did for the “full size” Black Bays at the time. At the very least, it seems like Tudor prices down as they slim things down … all with in-house tech and Rolex-family finishing. Speaking of which, it looks like pre-owned Black Bay Fifty-Eight models have dropped down to the mid-$2k range on the pre-owned market recently. Maybe think about that, as you look at this $4,000+ Seiko with a 6-series movement. It just doesn’t make sense and I’m deeply disappointed in Seiko, because this really should be half the price.
That’s it. I have run out of tears to weep and teeth to gnash. You can find out more about the Seiko Prospex 1965 Divers SJE093 on the brand’s official site.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.
The problem is how do you price being cool as shit? Imagine two movies – 1 cost 200 million to make but was a pedestrian rehash anyone could have made the other cost 10 million but was totally unique and really special. Which are you willing to spend more on to rent?
That is a fantastic analogy! The sum of the parts do not necessarily equal the whole. I have every SLA 62 mas except for the Beams edition (as well as both of the 1968 reissues) and intend to add this. I buy Rolex with my head and these with my heart. We all like different things for different reasons. A Bentley Bentayga shares a lot of parts with Audi.
A $3,000 premium just to get a dial without that awful ProspeX logo.
It’s like every watch enthusiast feels like they have an obligation to criticize every Seiko release in the exact same way, every time, thinking things will be different. Prices go up not down.
The problem isn’t with Seiko, it’s with the markets expectations. Move on if you don’t like Seiko.
😂😂😂
I love Seiko, I’ve owned two SJE models with the 6L35 and 4 SLA’s with the 8L35. Having an opinion that they have overpriced this model isn’t hating. Like the previous SJE’s this will be available with a huge discount in time.
Tudor mt5402 is not an in house caliber. It is made for Tudor by a company called Kenessi SA. for Tudor. Thats why Tudor refer to it as a manufacture caliber.
Just a nitpick: it’s 3500USD, not 4000. It isn’t a straight conversion from euros.
@Derek: Tudor owns Kenessi, so to call it not in-house is really splitting hairs.
Thank you. We’ve noted this update in the original post.
The 6L movement in this watch is totally different than the 6R movement found in lower end Seikos. Some Credors have 6L movements in them. It doesn’t make sense to talk about it as a “6 series movement.”
Yes, and people including myself will buy it but the 6L is basically a Soprod A10 (or vice versa) which is in competition to the ETA2824. So I can definetely see how people wouldn’t feel comfortable forking out that much. Honestly, if they somehow stuck a 8L35 and made it 13mm matching the original rather than the over indexing thinner at 12.5mm, raise the price to about around $5k I would be happy to buy that instead.
Yup, the 6s movement in Credor/Seikos are nice too. 6r is not close to 6l.
this watch is hot as hell don’t be jealous dang seiko can garnish my wages for a year to have this on my wrist for just one week – yeah im not kidding
I find all these thoughts on the various sites about the price of a Seiko limited reissue to be rather funny.
I’m going to remind you of the prices of the 2000s for watches from a famous Italian brand, made with ETA 6497-2 movements (which you could find on the net at 200/300€ at the time), a case very easy to machine and a leather strap, I forgot a very beautiful box veneered in pear wood, Price in 2000 of a PAM001 €2,408, 23 years ago… so of course they had done a brilliant marketing campaign recreating their history a bit because they forgot to mention that the movement of the 1940s Radiomir was a Rolex 618 and they had taken the shape of a 1930s model from Rolex, I think only the dial was of their invention (I allow myself these reflections because I was an important collector of this brand).
The goal is not to criticize this Italian brand but I think that the Seiko brand has as much legitimacy to create small series of watches that please lovers of the brand and at least they put in-house movements.
No worries anyway for Seiko, these watches are selling and their second-hand price remains honorable.
I understand that some people find it a little expensive but when you like a watch model there is not much that can stop the enthusiast and then it is always very pleasant to wear a somewhat exclusive model on the wrist. otherwise how Rolex and all the luxury brands could sell their watches that take 10% per year.
I forgot the main thing, I find it very beautiful and the dial is really very successful, in fact it’s perhaps the SPB143/145/147/149 which are not expensive enough, just kidding of course.
Eh, I’ve placed my pre-order. There is no substitute for a modern 62MAS. This design really lends itself towards this sizing. I really think this is going to be a cool watch. I’d be happy to see the price drop after release so that it’s more accessible and less pressure for these price increases.
If I only had one or a few watches, sure I’d look at something that is COSC certified, but I am not cross shopping that here.
The 6L37 is a new movement and I doubt we’ll get specific details about what was updated. I can’t find much information about the 6L35, but for twenty years I don’t think it has been in a watch under $1,500. It looks really nice when Credor dresses it up as a 6L75. As long as it beats away relatively consistently, I’ll be happy looking down at those shiny polished indices, sunburst dial, and bright lumibrite.
I agree with the premise of the article. Great history for the watch but not worth it to me for what they are charging.
For that price range I would rather get the quality of a Tudor. (They are the majority owner of Kenissi so it’s close enough to in-house for me.)
Or, if I’m interested in history I’ll take a Zodiac and save myself a few dollars.
I have pre-booked this watch.
As I am not interested in the gimmicks of Rolex called Tudor.
We have given too much importance to the the Swiss brands.
Seiko is still making these limited edition watches available in every part of the globe.Omega has also just changed their dials and made the 75th anniversary edition.Existence of every watch brand is essential.Each brand has their own unique strategy.
I would love to see you review of Seiko SPB143. Just to get a frame of reference.
If it were a “cash grab” they would make
more of these…
Insane price, but that is ann absolute stunner. While Rolexes and Omegas are a dime-a-dozen, seeing these in the wild really gets me going.