Seiko has returned to one of the safest places in its history for inspiration: the 1913 Laurel, widely recognized as Japan’s first wristwatch. This time, the result is a pair of regular-production Presage Classic Series watches that use traditional Japanese dial techniques and arrive at prices that deserve a closer look.
The new HCC005 and HCC006 share the same basic architecture. Each measures 39.6mm across, 12.4mm thick, and 46.8mm lug-to-lug, with a dual-curved sapphire crystal and leather strap. Inside is Seiko’s automatic 6R5H, offering approximately 72 hours of power reserve and a synchronized 24-hour display at six o’clock. Seiko lists accuracy at +25/-15 seconds per day. Both arrive in September 2026.
What stands out here, however, is how differently Seiko approaches the Laurel connection between the two. The $1,400 HCC005 is the more convincing of the pair for me. Its white enamel dial, black Arabic numerals, red 12, and blue-colored hands make the historical reference immediately readable without requiring much explanation. Seiko says the enamel dials are produced using a high-temperature firing process, which can leave small dimples and other variations in the finished surface.
The $1,650 HCC006 takes the idea somewhere more decorative, pairing a black urushi lacquer dial and gold-colored details with a gold-tone case. Urushi has been a recurring part of Seiko’s higher-end Presage catalog, so its appearance here makes sense within the collection. Still, the HCC005 feels like the cleaner expression of what Seiko is trying to reference.
Then there’s the 24-hour display. It occupies the visual territory you’d normally associate with small seconds on an early 20th-century watch, though its function is considerably less consequential. I don’t find that especially bothersome. It gives the 6R5H-equipped Presage models a recognizable layout, and there’s enough happening elsewhere to make the complication a secondary consideration.
Price is harder to dismiss. At $1,400 for the HCC005 and $1,650 for the HCC006, we’re well beyond the part of the Seiko catalog where a familiar 6R-series movement disappears into the background. The 6R5H brings a useful three-day reserve, but Seiko’s stated +25/-15-second daily accuracy range feels broad once you’re shopping around the $1,500 mark.
There is real dial craft involved, of course, and that’s been central to the appeal of Presage for years. Seiko also isn’t making these limited editions, removing the artificial scarcity that often accompanies historically themed releases.
One unusual specification is water resistance. Seiko lists the HCC005 as merely “Splash Resistant,” despite offering 5-bar resistance on another 6R5H-equipped enamel Presage released earlier this year. For a dress watch, that doesn’t bother me much, though it’s an interesting omission at this price.
Ultimately, I think the HCC005 makes the strongest case for this latest return to the Laurel. The design connection is clear, the enamel dial gives the watch substance beyond the historical story, and the dimensions remain sensible. The bigger question is whether those qualities are enough to keep the 6R5H from becoming the thing buyers scrutinize when $1,400 leaves their wallet.
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Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.