Omega has been making James Bond watches since 1995. That relationship now covers 31 years, nine films, two Bonds, and enough special-edition Seamasters to fill a pretty serious watch box. Somehow, though, Omega never made one for the bad guys. That changes with its latest 007 collection.
Released for Global James Bond Day, the new lineup includes James Bond and Spectre versions of the Seamaster Diver 300M. There are six references in total, although the collection effectively comes down to four watches once you account for the numbered steel models included in two limited box sets. Of everything announced, I think the steel Spectre Edition is easily the one to watch.
The Bond model pulls heavily from Omega’s existing 007 catalog. Its blue aluminum dial uses the laser-engraved wave pattern from the Bond 60th Anniversary Seamaster. The steel mesh bracelet is familiar, too, and the 12 o’clock marker incorporates the Bond family coat of arms. Omega adds a grained Grade 5 titanium bezel and a display caseback showing a 007 gun-barrel rotor.
It’s a lot of Bond history packed into one Seamaster. To me, the Spectre version feels much cleaner.
Omega starts with the same 42mm stainless steel Diver 300M case and mesh bracelet, then goes almost entirely black and white. The grained black aluminum dial is paired with white luminous hands and markers. A black ceramic bezel gets a similar grained finish, with its dive scale rendered in polished relief. Around back, the Calibre 8806 gets a black rotor carrying the Spectre octopus logo. I expected that logo to bother me more than it does.
My take is that Omega showed some restraint here. Spectre branding could have turned this into a novelty watch pretty quickly. Most of the obvious villain stuff stays on the caseback, leaving the dial and bezel to do the interesting work. From the front, you could easily miss the connection altogether.
Mechanically, there isn’t much new to discuss. Both steel watches use Omega’s familiar Calibre 8806, the same no-date automatic found elsewhere in the Seamaster family. It’s a METAS-certified Master Chronometer with a Co-Axial escapement, 55 hours of power reserve, and magnetic resistance up to 15,000 gauss. Water resistance remains 300 meters.
Let’s talk about the the $8,600 price. In my opinion, that’s where the Spectre becomes a tougher proposition. Omega already sells no-date Seamaster Diver 300M models using this basic case and movement platform. The Spectre gives you a specific dial and bezel combination, mesh bracelet, unique rotor, and all the 007 packaging that comes with it. I think the design is successful. I’m less convinced that those changes settle the value question.
There are also two $89,800 box sets, limited to 77 examples each, containing numbered steel models and exclusive platinum-gold versions with elaborate white-gold dials. They’re interesting objects, especially the Spectre model with its tentacle-pattern dial, but to me they’re collector curiosities sitting at the edge of this release.
The steel Spectre is where Omega surprised me. A villain-themed Seamaster sounds like an easy excuse to pile on the references. Instead, Omega produced the more subtle watch of the pair.
I think that makes the Spectre Edition pretty interesting. Whether it makes an $8,600 Seamaster more compelling is still the question.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.