Martenero Edgemere Reserve
By: Michael Penate
There’s a very small set of watch designs that can be easily recognized out of the corner of one’s eye. The “micro brand” space, unfortunately, barely produces any of them. With so much focus on vintage-style divers, old world designs made new, and case size battles on Instagram, who really has the time to hash out something distinct and visually exciting? For nearly five years now, Martenero has been producing watches that have captured my attention online, in person, and most importantly, from across the room. The brand’s latest release is a slightly more complex reinterpretation of their long running Edgemere model – a watch that I’ve always respected. The Martenero Edgemere Reserve brings a lot to the table in terms of design changes as well as features, and after reviewing the press materials closely I’m happy to say that I’m digging this newer version even more.
After a recent trip to the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair I realized just how easy it is to lazily put together a watch brand without giving it much thought. The approach, apparently, makes for quite the cash grab. When I witness something like the Martenero Edgemere Reserve come along, I can’t help but feel a sense of true pride behind the manufacturing and design process. Brand founder John Tarantino certainly conveys this and I think the Edgemere design speaks for itself as a result. After launching the project on Kickstarter, the Edgemere Reserve campaign already stands at 223% funded. So, let’s take a closer look at the watch itself – everyone else is.
Like previous Martenero releases, the Edgemere Reserve will be offered in multiple colorways – five to be exact. Initially, many enthusiasts will notice that the dial now communicates a greater sense of complexity and balance. While I thoroughly enjoyed the previous Edgemere look, I can’t help but feel like there was an odd amount of open, underutilized space. The addition of a framed date window, power reserve display, and 24-hour sub-dial might seem absurd for a watch like this, but it actually manages to take the multi-layer, textured dial to greater levels of harmony. Mix in a set colorful, nuanced hands and applied Arabic numerals, and you have yourself a look that’ll likely speak to a very broad range of watch buyers – no matter which color option they choose.
The 316L stainless steel case is 40mm wide, 47mm lug to lug, and just 11.8mm thick, which makes for a watch that is more than likely easy to wear in both casual and dressy environments. It’s sandwiched between two sapphire crystals, one of which is AR-coated and double domed for easy legibility. Additionally, Martenero opted for a screw-down crown, which is for some reason, always missing whenever I look at dressier watches. This supports the 30m of water resistance and to me, that’s totally acceptable for a watch I probably won’t be taking on a camping trip or nature hike. Martenero also claims that a completely custom approach was taken when constructing the case and it’s evident that it has quite a bit of depth and a playful combination of polished and brushed finishing.
A Miyota 9132 automatic movement powers the watch and as mentioned previously, adds 24-hour, date, and power reserve readouts. While the true utility of these features can be debated, I think the way they were incorporated augmented the Edgemere’s design overall. The movement features hacking, a 40-hour power reserve, and 28,800 bph operational frequency.
Martenero Edgemere Reserve Specs
- Case Diameter: 40mm
- Lug to Lug: 47mm
- Thickness: 11.8mm
- Lug Width: 20mm
- Water Resistance: Rated for 30m
- Movement: Miyota 9132 Automatic
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Strap: Leather (8 color options available)
- Price: $459 (Early Bird on Kickstarter) $695 (Full retail)
The Martenero Edgemere Reserve is available in blue, white, silver, black, and dark blue. As someone that’s always challenging the idea of what a “dress watch” can be, I can totally see myself gravitating toward the “Dark Blue” version pictured above. These are watches with such playful personality and my collection is still in dire need of some color. I only wish it was easier for more people to try them on in person – but we’ll try to get our hands on one soon to give you a closer look. To learn more and see more images visit Martenero’s Kickstarter campaign.
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Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.