Microbrands – everyone’s starting one. It’s what’s in, kids! With all this microbrand saturation it’s difficult to create a microbrand piece these days that actually has impact. One watch could look like any other watch from another brand if the “designers” aren’t careful. That’s why it’s important for microbrands to have a design element built into the piece that’s more than just the name on the dial. Some brands understand that and create something visual on the watch that actually accomplishes that goal. But even in this respect some brands can miss the mark. “Yes, [xyz] microbrand – you’re watch definitely stands out and catches my eye. But maybe a designing your case to look like a Transformer’s hemorrhoid manifested as an horological war crime wasn’t the best approach.” There’s memorable and then there’s special. My colonoscopy prep was memorable – but not special. My wedding was memorable AND special. So how can a modern microbrand not miss the mark in creating something both special but visually memorable? One option is by not entering that visual design rat race at all and marching to the beat of your own drum.
That’s the MAEN Watches Hudson Automatic in the photo above: a 38mm, 100M WR, ETA-powered, microbrand diver for aroud 500 Euros (approx. $575 USD). Particularly of note upon first impression is that the watch isn’t trying with all it’s might to catch your attention by any means necessary – it’s basically doing it’s own thing, which in my opinion articulates a certain design confidence that’s refreshing these days. But when I first had the MAEN Watches Hudson in my hands there was something just “off” that I couldn’t quite put my finger on. The unnameable “something” nagged me so much that I made it the focus of this review to explore exactly what I was experiencing.
The Case
There’s two case sizes available for the MAEN Watches Hudson: 38mm and 42mm. The unit that I have in for review is 38mm. At first the size was a bit jarring because I had been wearing one of my daily wears for a while and it was substantially larger than the MAEN watches Hudson. But after wearing it for a bit I was able to objectively judge the 38mm case size. I find the size to be extremely on point and it can be one of the more defining features of the watch. More and more horology is trending towards smaller case sizes, which in this Broke Watch Snob’s opinion is great to see. Smaller watches tend to be more versatile and often demand a much more finessed touch from a designer.
In the case of the MAEN Watches Hudson (pun intended) what we see is an extremely classic vintage dive watch aesthetic. This classic approach works in tandem with the 38mm case size to offer a watch that’s extremely balanced and wearable. What I enjoyed seeing also is strong attention to detail in regards to where I see other microbrands potentially falling short. I’ve handled many microbrand pieces and the case machining on most is honestly pretty good and precise. However on some cases the precise machining can leave some edges quite sharp. Don’t get me wrong – a sharp, precise edge really translates the idea of something being machined with quality. However, on the MAEN Watches Hudson where the edges on the top of the case could have been left sharp, there is instead a small polished bevel, softening the angle a bit. What I like is that this detail can be the difference between precision machining and precision crafting.
I’ve been notified that the style of the crown on the model that I’ve received will be different for production pieces. However, the crown will remain a screw down type and feature appropriate MAEN Watches branding. Also with a crown size of 7mm, there shouldn’t be any issues getting a good grip to set the time. The caseback on the model that MAEN watches provided has a clear exhibition window. But final models will have a solid caseback option, which will also increase the WR from 100m to 200m.
The crystal is a double domed sapphire with AR coating. If they really wanted to own the vintage vibe of the piece an acrylic crystal would have been preferable and brave to implement. But at the very least the dome structure of the crystal helps sell the vintage aesthetic (rather than a flat acrylic crystal, that is). However the bezel execution is entirely reminiscent of a vintage dive watch: 120 clicks, aluminum insert, straightforward font with minute ticks. The small case size means a small bezel, which is fine. However the nuances of the bezel’s teeth make it a bit difficult for me to get a good grip on . I have to get a bit of an awkward angle in order to really get leverage. However, once I’m able to get a good grip on the bezel and turn it, the action feels very solid. No play or wobble can be felt.
The Dial
3 dial varieties are being offered for the MAEN watches Hudson: white, black, and blue. The dial on the model I have in for review is black, which works appropriately paired with vintage style case. What I honestly swooned over as I spent more time with the watch is how balanced the dial elements are with each other. The watch hands actually reach the appropriate dial elements; the hour hand just meets the hour markers and the minute hand does the same with the minute markers. I’ve also been informed that final production models will have the second hand extended slightly in order to have it just reach the second ticks. All these elements are optimal not just for visual balance, but also legibility.
One issue I have with the hands though is that with the 38mm model they can sometimes appear too wide. This can accentuate the relative smallness of the watch, making it feel almost undersized. But this effect only happens at certain angles. The polishing of the hands doesn’t always catch light. So as long as light isn’t illuminating the hands, the effect doesn’t appear. However, as soon as light does his the hands they appear too wide.
Markers are applied to the dial and are very simple bars (while the 12 o’clock position marker is a double bar). Markers are wrapped in a polished metal material, which helps them stand out. A beveled chapter ring displays the minute ticks with red Arabic Numerals at the compose rose positions (60, 15, 30, 45).
The black dial variant that I have in has interesting red accents that help to give the watch a bit of character, however the red can sometimes seem like it’s a touch too subdued, getting lost in the overall design of the watch.
The Bracelet
Construction and machining of the bracelet feels very solid. The lug width is 20mm but the braclet tappers down to 18mm towards the clasp. The links appear to be pushpins (sorry no screw links), but according to the MAEN Watches site, all the necessary tools to size the bracelet will be included. However I did not receive those tools for the review, therefore I can’t speak to their quality.
The links feature a brushed finished, which helps keep the piece grounded and not too “blingy,” which is appropriate for a vintage inspired dive watch. I also really enjoyed the center-link contrasting brushing detail. It’s a small nuance, but it helps make the whole package feel like attention was paid to the smaller details. Aesthetically, this contrasting center link detail adds visual interest to the bracelet, making it feel less like a vintage tool diver and more of a dressy diver. This isn’t a bad thing – if anything it helps make the MAEN Watches Hudson a more everyday wearer. The model that I have in for review features a butterfly style clasp that’s hidden beneath the bracelet links. However, since receiving this model for review, I’ve been informed that final production models will feature a traditional double lock deployant style clasp.
The Movement
Only announced very recently, the MAEN Watches Hudson will be powered by the ETA 2824-2 Elaboré movement with Incabloc shock protection. The MAEN Hudson’s ETA 2824 will be reguatled +/- 7 sec daily accuracy in 4 positions. The 2824 has a power reserve of approx. 38 hours and also featuring hacking, manual winding, and a date wheel (dial options include date or no date).
In regards to reliability the ETA 2824 is well known. In addition, understanding the extra measures that MAEN is undergoing in order to ensure accuracy is notable.
Overall Thoughts
There’s so much balance and design finesse here with the MAEN Watches Hudson that it’s honestly incredible. Plus the size and movement choice make it extremely noteworthy. However, for me there is something that I just can’t get around: the watch just doesn’t feel special to me. It’s almost *too* under the radar. I know it sounds ridiculous that I’m saying that since I spent so long in the beginning laying out how microbrand watches spend too much time trying to be “eye catching,” but the instance here with the MAEN Hudson is potentially a touch too close to the other end of the spectrum.
It doesn’t go out of its way to try and get our attention, and on the surface that’s a good thing. But at the same time if the watch is too understated, it stands the risk of not being noteworthy. The question that I’m left asking is “did MAEN do enough to make the Hudson an excellent and unique piece? Or did they execute their ideal vision of a classic dive watch?” Just to clarify, the effect that I’m feeling isn’t necessarily a disparaging viewpoint. The thing is that I can totally see many collectors who just want a clean, honest interpretation of a smaller diver flocking to the MAEN Hudson. Hell, I mean, they did. MAEN crushed their Kickstarter goal raising in excess of $300,000 (with an initial goal at approx. $40,000). Obviously the watch will be built well and will feature a good movement.
So in case you’re like me I want to close this review with the following. It’s possible for you to encounter a watch that has the “right” specs, a balanced design, and a great price, but still not feel a connection. And that’s what I think is happening here with the MAEN Watches Hudson and my own personal taste. It’s just not a watch that speaks to me, and I suspect I’m not alone.
However if you’re looking for a classically designed dive watch with a timeless approach to aesthetics, then the MAEN Watches is perfect for you.
Please visit the MAEN Watches site for more info.
Let me know if I’m insane in the comments below, everyone.
Co-Founder and Senior Editor
Kaz has been collecting watches since 2015, but he’s been fascinated by product design, the Collector’s psychology, and brand marketing his whole life. While sharing the same strong fondness for all things horologically-affordable as Mike (his TBWS partner in crime), Kaz’s collection niche is also focused on vintage Soviet watches as well as watches that feature a unique, but well-designed quirk or visual hook.
Looks ok, but like you said on podcast, seems a little…bland. Nice review regardless
Yea it’s not like the MAEN Hudson is bad watch or anything, but just with the way my taste tend to gravitate it’s not quite exciting or interesting enough for me. I also thought maybe changing up the bracelet and trying different strap combos would help, but taking the bracelet off was damn near-impossible : / – thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, dude
Is the red really bordering pink in real life? Is the bezel triangle lumed?
It does have the problem of being too ordinary – slap it on a yellow nato! Maybe that will bring it to life.
The case looks flat on your wrist almost like a seesaw – so in reality it could wear larger then a Seiko diver.
The red is odd – some of the red is what I would classify as normal red and other red elements have almost a purple/magenta hue to them (at least to my eye) – and the bezel triable isn’t lumed on this watch. One of the issues with the MAEN Hudson here is that this isn’t a final production watch and as I pointed out in the review a lot of elements will change :/ – the case is def flat, which the MAEN Hudson can possible get away with since it’s a smaller watch so it wouldn’t need to account for the curvature of one’s wrist because it’s lug to lug wouldn’t span that wide.
Hey, Kaz. Nice review. Was just looking at a photo of an SLA017 and (ducking my head in anticipation of the rotten tomatoes and lettuces) noticed what I perceived to be a bit of a similar dial aesthetic. Which leads me to ask the question, if the SLA were released by a microbrand today, without the pedigree, how would it be received… incredible or meh?
I can def understand the perceived similarities in dials between the MAEN Hudson and the SLA017 – mainly with the bar markers. The MAEN’s bar markers are a bit thinner since they’re going for the dress-diver appeal as well.
To answer your question about how the SLA017 would be received today if it were released by a microbrand sans pedigree (ducks as well to dodge flung fruit), I personally think no one would give a crap. The driving force behind that Seiko reissue was nostalgia factor in my opinion, which only exist when it rides the wave of Seiko history. If you take the history away and place it in the modern market then it’s just another watch. I can see maybe some folks liking the watch based on aesthetics alone, but it’d be another drop in the bucket of the over-saturated microbrand market.
Very disappointed about the service. Marks and hands of mine Hudson 40 have different illumination strength. It was not what I expected, there was no communication of this matter. Now the new ones have different hands with better illumination. When I pay € 65 Maen is willing to change the hands. This is not how you treat your customer. The least they could do is send me the new hands free, no custom fees or other administration costs. I am very looking forward to a reaction.