The landscape of modern dive watch design is a crowded one. It’s such a popular genre that most manufacturers have at least one example in their lineup. Many brands try hard to present something different, something to make their watch more compelling than the competition, and some go the homage route. While the watch in review today is not revolutionary in design or specifications, I very much feel that the attention given to this one makes it stand out head and shoulders above many other good dive watches.
Glycine has been manufacturing watches since its founding in Bienne, Switzerland, in 1914. They’re probably best known for their Airman line of pilot and GMT watches, which were used extensively by the US military and even taken into space. The Combat line, including the Sub dive watch, has been in production since 1967.
In 2016 Glycine was purchased by Invicta, to the horror of many a WIS. Thankfully, the black predictions of decrease in quality seem to be much ado about nothing. The model I am reviewing in this article is a post-Invicta-purchase watch.
We’ll begin this review with the external, physical aspects of the watch, starting with dimensions (measured by myself with digital calipers).
- Case diameter: 42.2mm
- Lug tip to lug tip: 50mm
- Lug width: 22mm
- Thickness, including crystal: 10.5mm
One dimension should jump out at you from that list- the 10.5mm thickness. To my knowledge, this is one of the thinnest 200m automatic dive watch in production today. The case benefits from this thinness by being very smooth and straight-sided without appearing slab or puck-like at all.
One of the other strengths of the Glycine Combat Sub’s case design (and in my opinion one of the best aspects of the watch in general) is how down-swept the lugs are. For most wrists in the 6.5-7.5 range, 50mm from lug tip to lug tip can be a real crapshoot for wearability. Straight, non-curved lugs tend to hover over the sides of the wrist and make the watch look “perched” on top. The Glycine Combat Sub, on the other hand, absolutely nails this tricky detail, and I’m often amazed to look down at my wrist and realize I’m wearing a 42mm x 50mm watch. I think it wears smaller than its size due to this (and the thinness), and it definitely wears more comfortably than many other similar-sized watches.
Drilled lugs are a great feature on this watch as well, as is the crown size- large enough to feel substantial, but not too large for the watch’s svelte profile. The crown guards likewise are nicely swept and beveled on top, coming almost to points and providing protection without adding visual bulk.
The bezel is beveled outwards, but very slightly – the immediate effect is more of a flat bezel. It uses a 60 click mechanism, has an aluminum insert and a narrow coin-edge rim. The bezel on my watch is quite stiff and the click is very solid and pronounced, with no backplay at all. The bezel is aligned perfectly with the dial markers. Although for some reason they’re thought of less highly than their 120 click brothers, I’m a big fan of 60 click bezels. They tend to be very precise, and it’s great to know it’s exactly on the minute no matter how many clicks you turn it.
An interesting feature of this bezel is the small raised nub on the coin edge at 12:00. It gives you a little extra purchase when turning the bezel and makes it easy to find where the mark is in relation to the dial.
Something that always jumps out at me about this watch is how clear and legible it is, and some of this is due to the completely flat AR-coated (inside) sapphire crystal, as with no curves at the edges and no dome reflections it’s almost completely invisible even from sharp angles. While I like a domed crystal as much as anyone, I think the flat crystal on this watch is a great decision. The dial itself is a lovely matte gray, with a 24 hour scale inside the lumed indices.
A date window sits at 3:00 and is perfectly color-matched to the dial. The handset is well lumed, simple, and legible, and I like the bit of flare with the boxy second hand. Lume on this watch is excellent; not Seiko-flashlight-like, but more than adequate throughout an entire night.
Powering the watch is of course the classic, reliable Swiss ETA 2824 automatic movement, although Glycine refers to it as the GL224. Not much needs to be said about these movements; they are tough, refined, and capable of excellent accuracy. When I bought my Combat Sub it was keeping time at +20 spd, which is within spec and not terrible, but with a bit of easy regulation (done by myself- my first time opening up an automatic watch) it keeps time consistently at +6spd.
The included classic oyster bracelet is excellent but unremarkable. The solid endlinks are good to have, and the gently curved link geometry is aesthetically pleasing, as is the milled, signed, push-button clasp. The bracelet tapers from 22mm to 20mm at the clasp. Personally I would love if it had more taper as I think it would better suit the elegance of the watch, but it’s not a deal breaker for me. The big downside of the bracelet is the pin-and-collar link attachments- they aren’t fun to deal with in any bracelet and the Glycine is no exception. Pin and collar notwithstanding, the bracelet is easily on par with any sub-$1k Swiss offering.
Unusually for me, I don’t wear this watch on the bracelet very often, because with the downswept lugs it looks and wears wonderfully on a NATO strap.
As a tool watch I wouldn’t hesitate to take it on an actual dive – the stiffness and thinness of the bezel is the only thing that would give me pause, as all bezels are more difficult to operate with wet or gloved hands. For everyday wear, it sits low enough on the wrist that it doesn’t attract doorknobs or hard edges.
On the other hand with the thin profile and classic dive watch looks it will look great in almost any dressed up situation as well.
• 22mm Lug Width
• ETA 2824 Automatic Movement
• Sapphire Crystal (AR Coating)
• 200 Meter Water Resistance
• Price: $400 – $600
This watch makes me feel excited when I look at it. Many people admire and pursue the Rolex Submariner for its unique blend of polish and purpose, and I really feel that this watch achieves that same fusion – a feeling made warmer by the fact that it’s a unique and well-thought out original design! I’m not a James Bond aficionado, but when I look at and wear this watch I feel what I think most people do when they think of Bond, or of the iconic watches he wore; elegant refinement and rugged readiness, confidence and appropriateness in any situation. It’s really exciting to see a watch that gets all this so right, and especially one that does so creatively, and at an accessible price point.
There are a variety of different Glycine Combat Subs on Amazon, ranging from $400 – $600 USD. Some popular models have been shared below.