Ep. #172: Acclaimed Watches… We Just Don’t Understand

By: Kaz Mirza

Mike’s Picks:

JLC Reverso
The flippity-flip, that weird tie to equestrian exploitation, and a generally uninspiring design have always left me feeling indifferent about the Reverso. Sure, things get pretty crazy with models like the Duo-face and other more complicated variations. But overall, I always find myself scratching my head after realizing how popular this watch is. Sign me up for a Santos or a Tank instead.

Future Casio legend or social media blunder? I feel like nearly 100% of this watch’s identity is tied up in the overwhelming hype train it faced head-on shortly after its release. I get that it’s attractive and let’s face it… Genta’s touch lives on. But ultimately, I can’t understand why folks would pay crazy premiums just to get this on the wrist to wrangle up a bucket of likes on IG.

Tudor Ranger
I usually stand behind Tudor’s heritage reissues… I do. But the contemporary version looks like a lazy prototype or something so far removed from the original Ranger that we should just call it a different watch. Is this why Tudor introduced the Black Bay 36? Either way, the newer Rangers seem to have a cult following I just can’t get behind. But that’s the beauty of this hobby. Collect in a vacuum. Buy what you like. Go for it.

Kaz’s Picks:

Halios Seaforth
While as far as microbrand’s go, Halios is certainly worthy of praise in regards to quality and leadership. That said, the brand receives an almost unrealistic amount of reverence and praise ever since the release of the original Seaforth occurred. The main value proposition for the Seaforth became “it’s popular, so I should go out of my way to get one,” which is the antithesis of what a microbrand is supposed to be.

Microbrands are supposed to be outlets for individual watch enthusiasts to express their own personal tastes, devoid of any outside influence or impact. Not saying that the pieces Halios’ is doing aren’t cool or worthy of praise to those who truly find them objectively beautiful, I’m just saying that the main marketing value prop for many consumers has become FOMO.

Seiko Marine Master (SBDX023/SBDX025)
This is a tough one to admit – the Seiko Marine Master (older model SBDX017 | newer models SBDX023/SBDX025) is often seen as the upper echelon of where you should take your “seiko dive watch collection.” And that sort of mentality is understandable. The build quality and top-tier mechanical movement (8L35) do represent the top tier of what Seiko enthusiasts can indulge in for “seiko tool watches.”

However, for me that watch is just too goddam big. I know Seiko does a good job with making specs look big on paper but great on wrist. But every photo of these Marine Master’s I’ve seen look gigantic – like someone is wearing a cupcake on their wrist. Plus the font on the bezel looks off, and the dial is too small… I just don’t get it.

Seiko Yatch Master Mods
While Seiko mods have been the springboard to many budding watch enthusiast foray into “tinkering,” which can sometimes even lead to people becoming watch technicians. That said, some Seiko mods just should absolutely not exists… Specifically, the new trend of putting Rolex Yatchmaster bezels on Seiko SKX007s.

The fonts are wrong, the bezel is too bold, and none of the design language is comparable. It’s like putting chunky peanut butter in your ratatouille. Never the two shall meet.

Show Notes:
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3 thoughts on “Ep. #172: Acclaimed Watches… We Just Don’t Understand”

  1. Agree with most of your picks, but then I’m in the minority. I don’t “get” Seiko or Tudor.
    Kaz’s throw away line–most watch guys like 95% of watches–got me thinking. (Hope I quoted you correctly).
    I like roughly 10% of watches and love maybe 2%???
    Since most watches aren’t my style, I’d much prefer to discuss the watches I appreciate, than spend time ripping the watches that aren’t for me.
    P.S. Although I love JLC as a brand I’m no Reverso fan — too grandpa for me. However, to me the blue and especially red dials are magnificent. The finishing on JLC is insane. I wish they’d put that same red on the Polaris which I already love.
    All opinion of course, but the Carter Santos you favored looks ANCIENT and if you are going to rip JLC for their minimal marketing Rolex lives on the past and Omega lives on the moon.
    Love to hear a follow up podcast where you either tout watch models you think are underappreciated or popular watches that you’ve actually warmed to.
    For me, one would be the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster. Like as turned to love.

  2. This will make my list of favorite Top Ten episodes. Thank you so much for keeping the content coming when many of us could really use a good distraction from life’s current challenges. No. 172 has been the highlight of my week.

  3. Love the sentiment, curiously dont know if I’d have picked many of those watches. Some of the watches that appear to be icons (as opposed to just over hyped) i just dont get are:

    Seiko SKX – ugly, blobby, melted ice cream shape hoping a POS movement that should have been retired decades ago.

    Seiko Alpinist – fat bezel witha stupid compass function on top of a formless case with a dial mimicing a 1970’s tracksuit from a thrid world country at the olympics.

    Rolex Daytona. A watch really rare because the originals were so ordinary rolex couldnt give them away. Not an iconic chrono in a single way except some famous people bought them because they were rolexes.


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