Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph Stainless Steel Limited Edition
By Michael Penate
It’s been months of radio silence, but the Doxa brand has finally re-emerged after a change in management and personnel. After the puzzling introduction of the solid gold Doxa Sub 200 T. Graph Limited Edition at Baselworld this year, fans wondered if a more practical steel version would ever become available. Today – on Doxa’s newly formed Instagram account – the group announced the introduction of the Doxa Sub 200 T.GRAPH Stainless Steel Limited Edition. It’s one hell of a model to debut. But with a price tag hitting close to $5k and the recent departure of longtime Doxa General Manager Rick Marei, is this really the Doxa we’ve all been waiting for?
We can get back to that later but at first glance, this chronograph looks like the real deal. Case proportions seem to match what is found on the original Sub 200 T.Graph introduced in 1969. Construction is all stainless steel, the “beads of rice” bracelet looks similar to what we’ve seen in recent reissues, and the watch features the characteristic orange, “Professional” dial that we all know and love. Visually, the brand has done an excellent job.
One of the interesting marketing points the brand is pushing surrounds the movement. According to Doxa, the watch is powered by “original Valjoux 7734 calibers which had been conserved in pristine condition for over 30 years at Doxa.” There’s no denying the historical importance of the Valjoux 7730 series, and we even covered the upgraded 1969 version here. While it’s impressive knowing that these movements have been preserved and restored by the Jenny family, I should also note that the original T.Graphs featured an Eberhard 310-82 twin register chronograph movement. Other garden variety features include Super-LumiNova beige “Light Old Radium” and 200m of water resistance.
Doxa Sub 200 T.GRAPH Stainless Steel Limited Edition Specifications
- Case and Bracelet Construction: Stainless steel
- Case Dimensions: 43mm x 46mm x 15mm
- Water Resistance: 200m
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Movement: Valjoux 7734
- Crown: Screw-down
- Price: $4,900 USD (300-piece limited edition)
So a lot of us are wondering – I’m sure – if it’s all actually worth it. Well, it isn’t a solid gold Doxa chronograph that retails for $70,000 so if that bugged you, maybe this is the one. To be honest, I’m torn and I’d have to know more about the kind of customer experience the brand hopes to deliver these days. Perhaps a white-dialed Searambler version would’ve set me over the edge (this version only comes with the orange dial), but I’m not sure. For now, I’ll leave you with a recent quote from Dr. Peter McClean Millar – author of DOXA SUB: A 50 Year Journey – on the WatchUSeek forum shortly after General Manager Rick Marei’s departure.
It also marks the end of my involvement with Doxa. Yes I will continue to own and buy and enjoy the vintage watches and those from the Marei era, but I’d rather eat my underpants than have anything to do with the new ones or the people who are now running the business. -Dr. Peter McClean Millar
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.