Based in Japan and founded in 1881, Seiko has established itself as a dominant ubiquitous giant in the watch industry. Known for producing reliable timepieces at affordable prices, they’ve earned the respect of seasoned enthusiasts and casual watch wearers. However, the iconic Japanese brand also produces many timepieces, and navigating its catalog to find the best Seiko watches can be intimidating. That’s where the Two Broke Watch Snobs can help.

The list of watches below will span all design styles, from tool watches to dress watches and everything in between. Our catered selection will feature iconic Seiko watch models that represent the full breadth of the brand’s history.

Seiko 5 SKX Sports (SRPD51)

Case Size:42.5mm x 46mm x 13.4mm
Movement:4R36 (Mechanical Movement)
Power Reserve:41 Hours
Accuracy:-35/+45 seconds per day
Manual Winding/ Hacking:Yes/Yes
Price Range:$275 – $375

In 2019, Seiko Watches discontinued the SKX007, which marked the end of an era. During its production, that timepiece has remained a fan-favorite in the watch community and among divers for many years. While most people never envisioned the legacy of the SKX007 living on in the Seiko 5 line, that’s just what happened. Later in 2019, Seiko released the first phase of its Seiko 5 “SKX Sports Style” collection (quickly nicknamed the Seiko 5KX by fans), which included the SRPD51.

The case, dial, and hand style of the SRPD51 carry on the design legacy of its predecessor. While the water resistance is 100m (compared to the original’s 200m) and the crown doesn’t screw down, these features don’t detract from the fact that the 5KX line has introduced a whole new roster of timepiece designs, styles, and even sub-collections within the iconic SKX case shape legacy.

Seiko 5 Field Sports Collection

Image: Seiko
Case Size:36mm x 44mm x 12.5mm
Movement:4R36 (Automatic Movement)
Power Reserve:41 hours
Accuracy:-35/+45 seconds per day
Manual Winding/ Hacking:Yes/Yes
Price Range:$290 – $300

For many years, the Seiko 5 SNK series was one of the most recommended watches for seasoned and new collectors. Their everyday wearability and highly legible field watch dial made them highly desirable, and the price point at the time was under $100. However, Seiko quietly (without any official statement) discontinued this series, most likely around 2019 or 2020. But in 2023, the brand enhanced the Seiko 5 Field Sports Style collection. This new collection features a group of releases intended to be successors to the spirit of the original SNK800 series.

These new Seiko 5 Field Sports Style models breathe fresh air into the design motif, featuring similar case dimensions but bolder and more legible hands and markers. These newer models also feature upgraded movements, with the 4R35 replacing the previous generation’s 7S26 caliber. While the price of these newer timepieces has increased, you still receive much value for your dollar regarding the timepiece you’re getting. As such, the Seiko 5 Field Sports Style will remain one of our most recommended watches.

Seiko Solar PADI (SNE549)

Image: Seiko
Case Size:43.5mm x 50mm x 13.5mm
Movement:V157 (Solar Quartz)
Power Reserve:10 Months
Accuracy:-/+ 15 seconds per month
Manual Winding/ Hacking:No/Yes
Price Range:$300 – $400

Seiko has been producing dive watches since 1965. During that time, the brand exemplified that these timepieces can be ideal go-anywhere-do-anything (GADA) tools. With those decades of credibility in the dive community, Seiko’s collaboration with PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) on some of their classic dive watches makes perfect sense.

Each unique Seiko PADI features the PADI colors (red and blue) and logo. There are many options in the PADI collection, including the Seiko Samurai and Tuna, but my favorite is the Seiko SNE549. Powered by a solar movement and featuring a perfect balance of blue with red accents (even on the crown!), this watch proves that you don’t need to be a diver to enjoy the benefits of a fun watch born of a niche partnership.

Seiko 5 GMT (SSK005)

Case Size:42.5mm x 46mm x 13.6mm
Movement:Seiko 4R34 (Mechanical Movement)
Power Reserve:40 hours
Accuracy:+45/-35 seconds per day
Manual Winding/ Hacking:Yes/Yes
Price Range:$350 – $475

Accessible mechanical GMTs were always one of the most challenging aspects of watchmaking for most brands to make a name for themselves. But in 2022, Seiko launched the in-house caliber 4R34, a mechanical movement used in the affordable Seiko 5 collection, of which the SSK005 was one of the first GMT model releases.

While part of the Seiko 5’s “SKX Sports Style” collection, this timepiece features all the same iconic design tropes from its predecessor except for the GMT hand and the 24-hour bezel. Seiko designed this watch for comfort and style, so you must consider aesthetics when choosing the best one. Seiko is continuing to release different design iterations in their burgeoning Seiko 5 GMT line, so chances are high that even if you don’t find a model today that connects with you, one day, you will.

Seiko Turtle

Case Size:44.3mm x 48mm x 14mm
Movement:4R36 (Automatic Movement)
Power Reserve:41 hours
Accuracy:-35/+45 seconds per day
Manual Winding/ Hacking:Yes/Yes
Price Range:$350 – $500

Seiko originally released the Turtle in 1976, and it has since gained a reputation as one of the most faithful and well-respected reissues of a vintage diver in the watch community. Its unique asymmetrical case shape is why the Seiko fan community nicknamed it “the turtle.” In the late 1980s, Seiko discontinued the original production run of this timepiece. However, in 2016, they reissued it within the Prospex line with a new reference of SRP777, the historically accurate black dial version.

While staying as faithful to the original as possible, the new generation of Turtles features the in-house 4R36 movement, which includes improved accuracy and reliability from the original and the ability to hack and hand-wind. Several years after the SRP777 was released, Seiko changed the reference number to SRPE93. The only difference between the SRP777 and the SRPE93 is that some text on the caseback changed. Otherwise, they’re the same. No matter how many changes or iterations it goes through, the Turtle will always be one of the best Seiko watches available due to its everyday wearability and rugged reliability.

Seiko Samurai (SRPF03)

Image: Seiko
Case Size:44mm x 47mm x 13.4mm
Movement:4R35 (Mechanical Movement)
Power Reserve:41 Hours
Accuracy:-25/+35 seconds per day
Manual Winding/ Hacking:Yes/Yes
Price Range:$390 – $525

Most modern timepieces in Seiko’s catalog can trace their design lineage to a previous model from the brand’s history. The Seiko Samurai is different. Initially released in 2004, the first Samurai design came out of nowhere. It was modern and fresh and introduced a new segment of sports watches to Seiko’s offerings.

While there have now been several iterations of Samurai models, this now iconic dive watch still retains the aggressively angled case dimensions that defined its personality. It features everything you’d expect from the brand as a dive watch. It has 200m of water resistance, a tactile dive bezel, and a legible lume. The Seiko Samurai SRPF03 is an appropriate entry point for one’s collection, considering it features a characteristic waffle-dial texture with a black and grey bezel – the pricing on these models is also the most accessible with many options of finding the timepiece for well below MSRP.

Seiko Arnie (SNJ025)

Case Size:47.5mm x 50mm x 15mm
Movement:H851 (Solar Quartz)
Power Reserve:6 Months
Accuracy:-/+ 15 seconds per month
Manual Winding/ Hacking:No/Yes
Price Range:$400 – $725

Introduced in 1982, the original Seiko Arnie (Ref. H558) rose to fame as the wristwatch of choice for Arnold Schwarzenegger during the 1980’s. Prominently displayed in films such as Commando and Predator, it was one of the first analog-digital dive watches. It featured a uni-directional bezel, a screw-down crown, an alarm function, and even a chronograph.

This watch is part of the Seiko Tuna family. While a large watch, the classic Tuna case shape allows for a comparatively short lug-to-lug distance, creating a surprisingly comfortable wearing experience.

Seiko discontinued the production of the original H558 in 1990. But like The Terminator, the Arnie came back. The SNJ025 is one of the modern references within the Seiko Arnie collection that stays true to the original design. A reliable Solar H851 movement with a six-month power reserve now powers these newer models. Check out the PADI dial Arnie for additional color choices and historical significance.

Seiko Cocktail Time Collection

Image: Seiko
Case Size:40.5mm x 47.5mm x 11.8mm
Movement:4R35 (Automatic Movement)
Power Reserve:41 hours
Accuracy:-15/+25 seconds per day
Manual Winding/ Hacking:Yes/Yes
Price Range:$450 – $600

Seiko introduced the Cocktail Time collection in 2010, initially comprising three watches. Ishigaki Shinobu, a world-renowned bartender and mixologist, collaborated with the brand to create these first three designs. During that first wave, Seiko labeled one of the timepieces as the “Cool” model and assigned it the reference number SARB065. The model eventually transformed into the iconic “Cocktail Time,” people now regard it as one of the best Seiko watches available for those looking for a timepiece that has equal parts whimsical design and professionalism.

In 2017, Seiko announced the discontinuation of the original Cocktail Time. Eventually, in its place, the brand revitalized the collection with many different Cocktail Time models within the Presage series. These new models feature new dial colors, case finishes, and different cocktail motifs that inform their design. My favorites are the shimmering dials on the Manhattan and the Martini, but each stunning variation would be a solid addition to any collection.

Seiko Tuna (SNE498)

Case Size:47mm x 47mm x 12.4mm
Movement:V157 (Solar Quartz)
Power Reserve:10 months
Accuracy:-/+ 15 seconds per month
Manual Winding/ Hacking:No/Yes
Price Range:$450

The Seiko Tuna can be polarizing. I’ll admit that it took me a few years to understand it. It could be the nickname that caused my hesitation. More likely, it was the inspiration behind the name: a case resembling a tuna can.

What finally changed my mind? I tried one on. At 47mm, the SNE498 was technically one of the largest watches I’d encountered, but thanks to the (almost) lug-less design, it wore much smaller. Over time, I’ve learned that the Seiko Tuna’s quirks make it unique.

Seiko produces a ton of sports watches featuring similar movements and specs. So why buy a watch resembling a can of fish instead of something capable of flying under the radar? Because it’s fantastic. And quirky. And because watches should be fun.

Seiko Sumo Collection

Case Size:45mm x 52.6mm x 13.5mm
Movement:6R35 (Automatic Movement)
Power Reserve:70 hours
Accuracy:-15/+25 seconds per day
Manual Winding/ Hacking:Yes/Yes
Price Range:$600 – $800

Seiko’s collection of sports watches often glosses over the Sumo, but it deserves more recognition within the watch community. While other models generally have a long history and legacy associated with them, the Sumo is relatively new. Launching in 2007, the Sumo bridges the Marine Master and more affordable options like the SKX. As such, that meant the community viewed the watch as either too expensive when compared to an SKX or not quite the same quality (or price) as a Marine Master.

But for a select few in the Seiko collecting circles, we knew the Sumo was special. Seiko seemingly agreed as the brand slowly introduced the Sumo in different limited edition variations until it finally revamped the collection in 2019. These new Seiko Sumo models feature an upgraded 6R35 movement and additional dial options (like textures and brushed finishes). Among these newer references was the SPB103J1 (pictured above), which features a green dial and a ceramic bezel. While still not as popular as other models, the Seiko Sumo will continue to exist as a cult classic thanks to its comfortable (but substantial) case, fluid design aesthetics, and dependability.

Seiko Speedtimer Solar Quartz Collection

Image: Seiko
Case Size:39mm x 45.5mm x 13.3mm
Movement:V192 (Solar Quartz)
Power Reserve:6 Months
Accuracy:-/+ 15 seconds per month
Manual Winding/ Hacking:No/Yes
Price Range:$675 – $700

In the late 1960s, there was a race among major watch brands to produce the first automatic chronograph. While that honor eventually went to Heuer, Seiko also produced an automatic chronograph called the Seiko 5 Speedtimer that same year. While the original Speedtimer was relatively successful, the brand ceased production in the 1980s. However, Seiko has decided to revive the legacy of the Speedtimer with modern iterations that pay homage to the original.

These new Speedtimers now feature options for both mechanical and solar quartz movements. However, for our discussion on the best Seiko watches, we’re focusing on the solar quartz versions simply because the mechanical options are expensive at around $3,000 (compared to $675 – $925 for the solar quartz). The new iterations of the Speedtimer combine history, precision technology, and some fun color options into a timepiece that will become a classic.

Seiko Alpinist (SPB121)

Image: Seiko
Case Size:39.5mm x 46.4mm x 13.2mm
Movement:6R35 (Mechanical Movement)
Power Reserve:70 Hours
Accuracy:-15/+25 seconds per day
Manual Winding/ Hacking:Yes/Yes
Price Range:$725

Released in 1959 to support mountain climbers with high legibility and the vital accuracy they needed, the Seiko Alpinist was the Japanese brand’s first sports watch. As often happens during Seiko’s history, the original release marked a significant milestone given how strongly associated Seiko watches are today with sports, outdoor recreation activities, and reliability.

At its core, the Alpinist’s design is that of a field watch, which needs to be readable at a glance. It accomplishes the desired extreme legibility with strong lume, anti-reflective coating on the crystal, and a clean dial layout with high-contrast hour markers. The timepiece also features an interior rotating bezel, which is a compass – another crucial aspect of this Seiko’s reliability for the user. Because Seiko always takes the design to the next level, the Alpinist features elegant cathedral-style hands and indices evoking mountain peaks, which are aesthetic nods to the timepiece’s mountain climbing origins.

Seiko Sharp Edged Collection

Image: Seiko
Case Size:39.3mm x 47mm x 11.1mm
Movement:6R35 (Three Hander)
Power Reserve:70 hours
Accuracy:-15/+25 seconds per day
Manual Winding/ Hacking:Yes/Yes
Price Range:$1000 – $1400

As a brand, Seiko is skilled at understanding what makes specific collections “click” with the watch community. While we have historically seen that iterated in more sports-oriented releases, the Presage series is also starting to benefit from this treatment. With the success of the Cocktail Time, Seiko released the “Sharp Edged” series, which features a dial motif inspired by the culturally significant Japanese hemp leaf pattern (Asanoha).

We’re focusing our discussion on the date version of the watch since the GMT option is quite expensive. With the Sharp Edged series, you’re getting an incredibly comfortable but subtle case design intended to highlight the dial’s clean lines, intricacy, and rhythmic beauty. Seiko routinely releases new dial colors, and case finishes for this collection, so if you find yourself drawn to the dial style here, we’re confident you’ll find a model reference that will fit very well in your collection.

Seiko Marine Master

Case Size:44.3mm x 50.5mm x 15.4mm
Movement:Seiko 8L35
Power Reserve:50 hours
Accuracy:+15/-10 seconds per day
Manual Winding/ Hacking:Yes/Yes
Price Range:$3100

Many people consider the Marine Master 300 as the ultimate professional Seiko diver, besides the Seiko Tuna models. Seiko has expanded its collection of watches in the MM300 range since its inception in SBDX017 and currently offers a variety of designs and colors. The brand has even released lower-priced models with reduced water resistance, dubbed the MM200.

But the SLA021J1 and SLA023J1 offer you an 8L35 (Grand Seiko-level) movement and some of the most professional specs you’d find among high-end Seiko divers. It’s a big chunk of metal at over 44mm in diameter. So, we recommend you try one in person before acquiring it for your collection.

3 thoughts on “2024’s Best Seiko Watches – Unique Insights and Featured Models”

  1. Amazing article, Seiko has been my passion since my trip to Japan, that’s when I picked up a seiko for a souvenir..

    Reply

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