We are all familiar with the honeymoon phase, which tends to follow a watch purchase. Like newlyweds madly in love, we often find ourselves infatuated with a new timepiece. We look past flaws, are overly forgiving, and spend every waking minute together. But the honeymoon can’t last forever. Just as newlyweds might enjoy some time apart when the honeymoon ends, watch enthusiasts often find themselves taking a break from watches they recently obsessed over.
The problem with the honeymoon phase of watch collecting is that it only delays acknowledging the shortcomings of a watch. Looking at my dwindling collection, most watches that I “honeymooned” with have found new homes long ago sold after I couldn’t look past these shortcomings. What I am left with is a collection of what I could call “slow burners.” These are watches that I liked out of the box, accepted any limitations from day one without being blinded by rose-colored glasses, and have only grown more fond of over time. My most recent slow burner is the Belhamel Contra A39, the first release from a microbrand focused on creating retro-modern automatic sport watches that you might know from their recent successful Kickstarter campaign. Like the other watches in my collection with staying power, the Contra A39 doesn’t lean on tricks and instead embodies the idea that less is more.
The Watch
The concept of less is more only works when “less” is expertly executed, something the Belhamel Contra A39 does by hanging its hat on subtly nailing the details. Built on the foundation of a 39mm case and at only 12mm thick, enabled by the relatively thin Miyota 9039, this affordable skin diver is designed for comfort. Beating at 28,800 BPH and with a power reserve of 42, the high-beat Miyota movement inside is quickly becoming an enthusiast favorite for its sweeping secondhand and proven reliability. Movement snobs that don’t like a ghost position (no judgment) will appreciate that the Miyota 9039 is a true no-date movement.
When shopping for a microbrand watch in a market flooded with $500 divers, it would be an understatement to say that consumers are spoiled for choice. While most of these brands lean on a distinctive design DNA to stand out from the crowd, Belhamel opts for a more generic design and instead focuses their efforts on elevating every millimeter of it. That isn’t to say the A39 doesn’t have a design language of its own, but rather that it prioritizes subtlety over being recognizable from across a room. This includes invisible details such as opting for 300 meters of water resistance (enabled by a signed screw-down crown) instead of the more common 200 meters and even hardening the case to add extra durability and scratch resistance.
Visible features include opting for a steel bezel and going the extra mile to polish edges on a mostly brushed case, giving a welcome touch of refinement to a watch that is a tool at its core. This sleek motif carries over to diamond-cut hands and too-thick polished indices prone to catching the light at any angle. Maintaining its commitment to refinement, the text on the dial is welcomely brief. Available in Raisin Black and Charcoal Blue, both variants of the watch include the brand name at the 12:00, with only the model name and water resistance at the 6:00. Both watches feature orange accents above the 5-minute indices, an orange-tipped second hand and even an orange triangle enveloping the lumed pip on the 120 click rotating bezel.
A Show-Stealing Bracelet
I’m on the record as being a bracelet skeptic, jaded by years of dealing with bracelets that hindered wearability rather than enhancing it, and that generally felt like an afterthought. I was prepared to take the bracelet off the Belhamel Contra A39 as soon as it arrived, planning to swap it for a rubber or nylon strap as I usually do with a new purchase. However, in what was a completely new experience for me, I found the bracelet to be the most impressive aspect of the entire package. The solid female end links milled to fit the unique lug shape of the case offer not only an aesthetically charming seamless transition but also prevent the bracelet from extending beyond the comfort-forward 47mm lug to lug distance of the watch. Starting at 20mm, the hand-finished bracelet tapers down to 16 mm, featuring individually finished links with generously broad polished sections bordering each link.
The bracelet features quick-release spring bars, making it easy to swap for a third-party strap, but with a bracelet of this quality that compliments the watch so well, these spring bars might go unused. I got curious and found the A39 to be versatile and work on a variety of straps (blue dials possess a notorious chameleon quality). A couple of days in, my only complaint (spoiler alert, it wasn’t valid) was the incorrect assumption that the A39 didn’t come with enough spare links for someone with a large wrist. With my 7.5-inch wrist, I didn’t need to remove any links, instead finding the perfect fit with the micro-adjust (not on the fly) holes on the clasp. But when admiring the above-par packaging, I noticed a separate drawer that contained a completely separate clasp with a diver’s extension—a nice touch that will add year-round practicality to this already adaptable diver.
Final Thoughts
Ask any Tudor owner about their Black Bay, and the conversation will inevitably acknowledge the somewhat monotonous design while simultaneously singing its praises for being an attractive and versatile all-rounder. This recipe for tamed success isn’t exclusive to Tudor, and I would argue that Belhamel cracked the same code with the Contra A39. Rather than focusing on how recognizable it will be from across the room, it focuses on how it looks (and feels) on wrist—a surprisingly unique and refreshing approach.
When spending $500 on a watch, you can usually count on getting something reliable but with some predictable cost-cutting measures. These can range from crappy straps that feel like an afterthought to unnoteworthy case finishing. While other brands are cutting corners, the A39 is refining them, taking every opportunity to excel rather than skimp. The result is a sleek dive watch that distinguishes itself with comfort, durability, and a commitment to refined practicality.
Nathan Schultz is a New Hampshire based writer with a passion for affordable timepieces. He became obsessed with automatic watches in 2019 after learning not all watches have batteries, and quickly fell in love with the joys of collecting and modifying watches and meeting fellow enthusiasts. When not poring over new releases from big brands and microbrands, he can be found putting his tool watches to the test on local hiking trails.