This is a new series in which I describe everything I dislike about watch collecting. They may or may not be hot takes. What I hope is that it generates discussion on the expansion of why we collect watches, and how that branches out into other aspects of our lives.
I’d like to discuss the sub-field of military watches. This includes both actual vintage military watches, and the wide variety of modern homages, reissues, and “military-inspired” pieces that exist today. I don’t have a problem with their existence. The designs are often practical, straightforward, and easily readable. My issue is with the buyers. My opinion is this: if you own a military watch, you should know more than the basics of the conflict that watch is most closely associated with.
I’ll give an example. Praesidus is a company that makes some really cool re-creations of particular military watches. One of their more famous ones is the Rec Spec, a re-creation of a Seiko watch most famously worn by members of the Studies and Observations Group (SOG) in Vietnam. It’s also known as the MACV-SOG watch. Quick question for you, reader: without looking it up, what does MACV stand for?
MACV stands for Military Assistance Command, Vietnam. It was the primary headquarters/lead organization which all military elements in Vietnam fell under. I argue that if you cannot answer this question, you should not buy this watch. By buying this watch without understanding anything about the wider stories of the men that wore them, you’re doing both them and yourself a disservice. If all you remember about the U.S. soldiers who fought in Vietnam are the literal Things They Carried, then you should reflect a little more on why you want that item in the first place.
This argument only applies, though, if you as a consumer are purchasing any item specifically because of its connection to the military. If you like the Hamilton Khaki, for example, because of its practical design, I can’t critique your decision. A well-designed object doesn’t have to be fancy to be appreciated. If you are interested in a specific watch due to its historical connection to something, though, you should know more than the basics about that event.
I’m not saying that only history professors or veterans can wear military watches. But if you, as a consumer, want a connection to these things, you’re not going to find it simply by buying a product. That appreciation comes with a greater understanding of the context that the product was used in. The list below features watches from the First and Second World Wars and the Vietnam War, modern-day homage watches, and a book recommendation to learn more about the conflicts listed.
The First World War
Men’s wristwatches were born in the trenches of the First World War. Originally derided as a woman’s accessory, men were much more likely to carry a pocket watch. Upon entering military service, however, many men found that fumbling with a pocket watch to time artillery bombardments, or determine when to advance across no-man’s land was impractical and often deadly. Thus, the trench watch was born.
This style of watch has been less popular than others to homage, as it appears much more old-fashioned stylistically than most people would like today. Vario, a company based in Singapore, makes the most available model – the 1918 Trench. Made in a variety of sizes and colors, it’s much more durable than the watches that inspired it.
Book Recommendation: WWI in Eastern Europe
The book I recommend with this watch is The Eastern Front: A History of the First World War by Nick Lloyd. Most of the discussion about the First World War revolves around the Western Front, where the British, French, and (eventually) Americans fought the Germans. The Eastern Front shines a light on the fighting in Central and Eastern Europe, where the Germans, the Austro-Hungarians, and the Bulgarians fought the Russians, the Italians, the Romanians, the Serbians, and even a contingent of French and British soldiers. This theater was not characterized by the standstill that the Western Front was known for. Rather, large swaths of land traded hands frequently, as armies maneuvered over a much larger front to try and punch through each other’s lines. I found this to be a fascinating look at a side of World War One history that is often forgotten about when compared to the trench warfare associated with the battles in France and Belgium.
World War Two
U.S. watch manufacturers produced millions of watches for troops during the Second World War. The most famous of these was the A-11. The A-11 was not a singular wristwatch produced by any one brand, but rather a standard set by the military that watches had to conform to. The A-11 was a higher-quality watch provided specifically to aviators, because it used a more accurate sixteen or seventeen jewel movement. A lower quality watch provided to ground troops was known as the ordnance watch, with a seven or eight jewel movement.
On a side note, this is why most military service members are wary of anything labelled or marketed as “military grade.” Actual equipment provided by the military isn’t necessarily the best – it’s deliberately designed to be “good enough,” for a decent length of time, and then easily and cheaply replaced if it is broken or damaged. So, never let a company charge you more for something just because it’s “military grade.”
Praesidus has a variety of A-11 homage watches. Some commemorate specific D-Day anniversaries, and all are available in multiple sizes. Their recent release is surprising due to the size of the watch: 32mm. While that is considered small today, that was the size of the original watch. The watch still has an impressive 100m of water resistance, in keeping with its field watch nature and modern construction.
Book Recommendation: WWII in China
The first battle of World War Two did not take place in Europe. It took place in 1937 with the Marco Polo Bridge Incident, just north of Beijing. This prompted a full Japanese invasion of China, with all the horrors associated with World War Two in Europe taking place, sometimes at larger scale, in China as well. Rana Mitter details this in his book Forgotten Ally: China’s World War II, 1937-1945. Despite its losses on the battlefield, the Nationalist and Communist Chinese forces tied down huge portions of the Japanese Army, drawing them away from other theaters and preventing the Japanese from focusing their resources elsewhere. Most people don’t think of China when they think about WWII theaters, but it was one of the bloodiest. This book provides not only a strategic overview of the war effort, but also a window into understanding how the Communist Party came to power once the war ended.
Vietnam
The conflict in Vietnam brought with it requirements for all kinds of equipment upgrades, including in watches. Rather than continue to use the A-11 platform, the military put out a new set of requirements, detailed in MIL-W-3818B, and later the -46374 military specifications. Updated accuracy standards and plastic cases and radiation markers on the dial were just some of the changes. The watch was issued to thousands of soldiers during the conflict.
Benrus has re-released its original design for $990. At 34mm, it’s much closer to the size of the original than the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical, though it is more expensive.
Book Recommendation: Riverine Warfare
Vietnam is often referred to as a helicopter war. While it’s true that Vietnam was the first conflict in which helicopters were widely used, they were not the only form of transportation available to commanders. In Brown Water, Black Berets: Coastal and Riverine Warfare in Vietnam, author Thomas Cutler describes the experiences of Navy and Coast Guard personnel who plied the miles of waterways that snake through the country. He details the rapid development of new watercraft to aid sailors on patrol and the tactics, techniques and procedures (TTPs) of sailors deployed into this new environment. He tells the stories of multiple veterans whom he interviewed, and describes the types of missions that patrol craft were utilized for.
Conclusion
It isn’t a bad thing to like military watches. It is, however, a bad idea to try and connect with military themes and history solely through consumerism. More than just stoking your interest in watches, reading about the things you like and the context in which they were used will give you a much better sense of connection to them. Collecting should not just be about owning something, but understanding why it is important to you.
John began collecting watches in 2018, when he realized that the hobby meshed well with his love of studying history and researching obscure topics. In addition to watches, John enjoys collecting fountain pens, learning languages, reading, and traveling.