Tissot is adding two new dial colors to its PR516 38mm Powermatic 80, extending a collection that has been steadily regaining relevance since its return in 2024. This update doesn’t introduce a new case, movement, or configuration. Instead, it focuses squarely on color as a way to refresh what I think is one of the brand’s most approachable mechanical offerings.
The PR516 is rooted deep in Tissot’s mid-century catalogue. First launched in 1956, the model evolved into a racing-inspired design by the mid-1960s. That motorsport-adjacent identity is the version most collectors associate with the name today, and it is the design language Tissot has leaned into with its modern revival. After reintroducing the PR516 as a mechanical chronograph in 2024, followed by a simpler automatic time-and-date variant, the brand now expands the 38mm Powermatic 80 lineup with two additional dial executions.
The case architecture remains unchanged. It measures 38mm in diameter, 11.2mm thick, with a compact 44mm lug-to-lug. Stainless steel construction is paired with predominantly brushed surfaces and polished side bevels. The fixed black bezel carries a 60-minute scale beneath a mineral crystal insert designed to echo vintage acrylic, while a sapphire crystal protects the dial. Water resistance is rated at 100 meters.
The first new option features a matte white dial contrasted against the black bezel. Dark grey coated hands and applied markers are used to maintain legibility and a restrained visual balance. The second is a more expressive release, built around a gradient aqua blue dial with silver-toned applied markers and hands, paired with a white date disc. Compared to the initial 2024 releases, the seconds hand now matches the rest of the dial hardware rather than standing out in a contrasting color.
Powering both models is the Powermatic 80 automatic movement (which I’ve really grown to love), visible through a transparent caseback. Based on the ETA 2824 architecture, it operates at 3Hz and incorporates a revised gear train along with a Nivachron hairspring. The result is an 80-hour power reserve and improved resistance to magnetic fields, characteristics that have become familiar calling cards of this movement family.
Both references are fitted to a five-link Jubilee-style stainless steel bracelet with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, secured by a butterfly clasp. Pricing sits at $825, and availability is now open through Tissot boutiques and authorized retailers.
From my perspective, this is where a little subjectivity naturally creeps in. I like these additions, and the colors genuinely work, especially the aqua blue, which feels fresh without straying into novelty. That said, the fixed bezel is probably going to be a downside for many collectors. I understand that not every watch needs to be a diver, but the lack of a rotating elapsed-time bezel does limit functionality compared to what a simple timing bezel can offer in everyday use. Still, this release feels very on-brand. Tissot continues to do what it has long been good at, offering attractive Swiss-made watches at attainable prices that make a lot of sense as first mechanical pieces for collectors just starting to find their footing in the hobby.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.