I’ve been around long enough to know that a lot of new releases—especially under $300—feel like someone trying to check boxes on a mood board rather than actually design a watch. “Throw in some heritage, make it black, mention pilots somewhere.” But Timex is one of those brands that, for better or worse, keeps surprising me. They’ve done the collabs, the revivals, the quartz sleeper hits. And while not everything sticks, there’s always this undercurrent of effort.
They’re still trying. Which is maybe why, when a friend texted me the Waterbury Ace late one night. I didn’t write it off. I clicked. I looked. And yeah, they got a few things right.
This one doesn’t try to be an IWC knockoff. It’s 41mm across (which is pretty tame for a pilot-style), with a brushed recycled stainless steel case that gives it a nice mix of tool-watch honesty and subtle refinement. The dial’s all business—black, clean, and full Arabic numerals that you can actually read without squinting. No gimmicky logo on the seconds hand, no forced vintage cues. Just clarity. And while I usually roll my eyes at “eco-initiatives” slapped on leather straps, I’ll give them credit here.
Inside is a no-nonsense quartz movement—battery-powered, accurate, and quietly reliable. This isn’t trying to pretend it’s mechanical. It’s a grab-and-go piece, and honestly, that’s part of the appeal. It’s 9.5mm thick, water-resistant to 100 meters, and topped with a mineral crystal. Nothing fancy, just daily-wearable durability that doesn’t scream “budget.”
Timex calls it “an elevated reimagining,” and while that phrase usually makes me cringe, I kind of see what they mean. It’s still a Waterbury, still firmly planted in the brand’s accessible American roots—but stripped of gimmicks and dressed with a little more maturity. Less nostalgia play, more functional minimalism.
Would I call it a must-have? No. But if you’re the type who just wants a clean, fuss-free pilot’s watch from a name with some real history—something you won’t baby but still respect on the wrist—this might be the Timex you’ve been waiting for.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.