There was a time when the Timex Marlin was just a reissue—a charming, underdog revival that quietly brought mechanical watchmaking back to the brand’s catalog. That was 2017. Back when the watch community was just starting to forgive quartz (again), and the idea of a $200 mechanical dress watch that didn’t come from Seiko felt almost rebellious. Now, the Marlin’s not just back—it’s sprawling. Chronos, California dials, full calendars… it’s basically Timex’s retro playground. And finally, they’ve given it a GMT.
It’s called the Marlin Quartz GMT, and yeah, that last word might cause some of you to wince. “Quartz? But the Marlin’s supposed to be mechanical.” I get it. But if you’ve been paying attention, quartz has never been the villain here—especially not for brands like Timex that lean into accessibility and daily-wear practicality.
What’s new is the movement. This is the first GMT complication in the Marlin lineup, and Timex has slotted in a quartz “caller” GMT—meaning you set the 24-hour hand independently while the local hour stays put. No, it’s not a flyer. But for $199–$229, that’s hardly a dealbreaker. Besides, it shares DNA with the Q Timex GMT, which already proved this layout can work when done with a little flair.
The case is a familiar 40mm steel form—the same one Timex has used since the Marlin’s reintroduction—but the dial options feel pulled straight out of some forgotten 1960s airline catalog. There’s a navy-and-gold combo with a light/dark blue 24-hour ring (my pick of the bunch), plus a full steel variant with silver hands and indices. Both have a subtle lume application—those “i”-dot markers add a little glow without ruining the mid-century charm.
Then there’s the loud one: gold-tone case, gold bracelet, black dial with a fading gilt 24-hour track. Is it a little much? Maybe. But I kind of respect the confidence.
No bezels here—just printed 24-hour tracks and that red-triangle GMT hand we’ve seen before on the Q. And while this isn’t the kind of GMT you’d take across time zones every week, it’s perfect for tracking a second timezone passively—whether it’s for travel, work calls, or just that family member living somewhere far off.
What I appreciate most is how this feels like a natural evolution, not a forced SKU grab. The Marlin line has already stretched well beyond its original brief, and adding a GMT at this price (starting at $199) keeps the whole thing rooted in what Timex does best: making nostalgic watches that are fun, wearable, and delightfully accessible.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.