Cereal boxes and watches have one thing in common: The name brand is always cooler. Any kid visiting their friend’s house is aware of the age-old cereal box politics. Take frosted flakes, for example. The off-brand with the generic penguin may taste the same as the more expensive one with the authentic tiger wearing that iconic red bandana, but there is no denying the elevated breakfast experience of having the real deal in your pantry and feeling like a king sharing it with your friends.
As we age, we learn to care less about what cereal our friends are eating. With budgets of our own, we understand why our parents bought the cereal from the bottom shelf, and we carry on the financially savvy family tradition of buying off-brand cereal. Our focus shifts from breakfast foods to other status symbols, including watches. For watch enthusiasts, the provenance of the watch strapped to our wrists carries more weight than Tony the Tiger ever could. Brands like Blancpain and Breguet are among the coolest, both bringing centuries of history and original designs. But what is on the other end of this spectrum?
When it comes to provenance, nothing has less of it than an AliExpress homage. On this online platform based in China that sells inexpensive Chinese products, there are plenty of watch brands (or should I say manufacturers?) offering copycat versions of watches with actual provenance. Selling everything from look-alike Seiko Turtles to Omega Seamasters, these brands specialize in affordable (often in the $100 to $300 dollar range) versions of popular watches. Often powered by 3rd party movements such as the Seiko NH35, brands like Addiesdive, Pagani Design and Steeldive offer watches that aren’t technically replicas because they aren’t trying to pass as the original. However, scrolling through San Martin’s (one of the most prominent brands in this category) catalog, it’s clear that they aren’t trying to hide where they draw inspiration from. Their version of the Black Bay (one of their many Tudor homages) is even labeled as “BB Diver” on their own website.
It’s worth noting, as a collector, I’m not personally opposed to homages. Modern watches are always inspired by the watches of yesterday. When the lines are inherently blurred when determining what is considered an original design, I don’t see a reason to draw a line at all. Unless it’s a replica, no harm no foul in my book. If you aren’t put off by the idea of an homage, it’s hard not to get excited by the value that can be found in this copycat corner of watch collecting. For years, I’ve seen these budget friendly watches pop up periodically in my horological group chats. In these safe, private spaces, fellow watch enthusiasts share their excitement after purchasing one of these spec-heavy alternatives to their expensive original design counterparts.
But like kids eating off-brand cereal in the shadows of their own kitchen hoping their friends don’t find out, the excitement shared for these watches historically has been muted in public spaces. YouTube reviewers, including the popular channel Just One More Watch, have been known to sing their praises. But beyond this one platform, brands like San Martin and Addiesdive don’t get much major media coverage. And the lack of public excitement isn’t limited to the media. On Reddit, a user-moderated platform where any topic is fair game to post and discuss freely, the subreddit dedicated to discussing Chinese watches has only 38 thousand members. This is just a small percentage of the 2.4 million members in the all-encompassing subreddit dedicated to watches.
Shifting Perceptions
But in recent months, my observations as someone plugged into the watch enthusiast community indicate public perception has been steadily shifting to be more accepting of homage watches found on AliExpress. I haven’t pinpointed a single factor contributing to this notable change. Maybe it’s a response to sustained inflation leading to more frugal spending on non-essential purchases. Maybe it’s the fact that San Martin offers highly desired on-the-fly micro-adjust bracelets while major brands pretend like the technology doesn’t exist. Or maybe (I have a suspicion this is the biggest factor) collectors simply feel disenfranchised from their favorite brands and are looking for alternatives. When attainably priced brands raise their prices without addressing quality control issues and luxury brands continue to increase the barrier to entry, it’s easy to see why collectors would expand their horizons to frontiers they once ignored.
Though a single factor might not be responsible for the sudden shift, one watch in particular seems to be doing more positive PR work than any other at the moment: the 36mm Addiesdive AD2030. While purely anecdotal, this watch has organically been bombarding my orbit unlike any other watch in the genre, an experience that surely isn’t limited to me. Sure, it’s had some positive reviews on YouTube from channels that specialize in affordable collecting, but that is to be expected and is not what caught my attention. In stark contrast to the cereal analogy I’m beating to death, this off-brand watch suddenly seems to be generally considered as… well, cool. Seriously, check out the recent conversations at #addiesdive on WatchCrunch and Instagram where enthusiasts are openly expressing their overwhelmingly positive views of the watch. I even had someone pull out their phone at a local meetup to show me pictures of “this cool new watch” they saw online… you can guess which one it was.
The Watch
Under the guise of “market research”, I made the minor $50 investment to see what the fuss was about. And while this article is more of an observation of the shifting perception of Chinese watches than it is a review of one specific watch, a closer look at the specifics of the AD2030 might help shed light on the watch community’s collective shift in mentality.
Hyperbole aside, the Addiesdive AD2030 is the best-finished watch under $300 I’ve ever handled. The textured dial (I went with blue, but it also comes in a sandy brown and an off white) might not be on the same level as the Grand Seikos it pays homage to, but is notably well-executed and has a charming ripple effect. The hands and indices have a mirror polish I was unable to find a single flaw in. Light brushing on the lugs transitions to polished sides on the elegant case that measures in at a comfortable 36mm diameter with a compact 46mm lug to lug. Meeting the common enthusiast request for versatility, this dress watch features a screw down crown and 100 meters of water resistance.
Beyond the textured dial and well-finished 36mm case, the most impressive aspect of the AD2030 is the high beat Seiko VH31 quartz movement. Collectors that typically shy away from quartz watches may be drawn to the near-sweep of its four beats per second (four times faster than a normal battery powered watch and nearly as fast as a typical automatic). Without reading the caseback, you’d be forgiven for assuming this was an automatic watch, though it comes with the ease of ownership associated with quartz.
So, what’s the catch? There are a few, but Addiesdive doesn’t necessarily try to hide them. No, the crystal isn’t sapphire, but a mineral crystal is an expected concession when a watch costs as much as a tank of gas and when aesthetics trump all else. The bracelet finishing isn’t quite on par with the case, but still higher quality than the price point suggests. Uniform brushing, simple yet nicely done, can be found on the 3-link design, which tapers to a milled clasp. Pins are used instead of the more commonly preferred screws. However, like the crystal, it is a cut-corner that doesn’t impact aesthetics, which is what this watch is all about. In short, the watch is worth the fuss. If you are willing to make some predictable compromises, better value does not exist.
Final Thoughts
Once upon a time, Rolex reportedly struggled to sell their now nearly unobtainable Daytona. Likewise, the AP Royal Oak was met with more skepticism than enthusiasm upon its release in 1972. I’m not saying my new $50 AliExpess special is the next watch investor’s pipedream, or even that it will ever sell for more than its current retail value. But I am saying that what is popular and cool now often does not represent what was sought after in years prior.
AliExpess homages like the Addiesdive AD2030 are suddenly cool. Will that trend last? Time will tell. Should that trend impact your purchasing decisions? Probably not, but we all know peer approval undoubtedly influences our watch purchases. Ultimately, the take-away comes down to the age-old advice of “buy what you like”. But from a watch enthusiast on a budget, I’d be lying if I said it doesn’t feel good to eat my off-brand cereal in public with pride.
Nathan Schultz is a New Hampshire based writer with a passion for affordable timepieces. He became obsessed with automatic watches in 2019 after learning not all watches have batteries, and quickly fell in love with the joys of collecting and modifying watches and meeting fellow enthusiasts. When not poring over new releases from big brands and microbrands, he can be found putting his tool watches to the test on local hiking trails.
I dont think homages/clones/knockoffs have become cool, rather, I sense that most people have worked out that expressing disdain for these watches sails close to expressing disdain for the people that buy them and that is regarded as very uncool. Hence most people that arent into them have just shut up and keep their thoughts to themselves.