Sometimes a watch hits your feed and you pause. Not because it’s outlandish or overbuilt or some weird Kickstarter experiment. But just because it looks good. That was my first reaction to this new Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT—specifically, the SPB519J1.
Seiko loves an anniversary. This one’s marking 60 years since their first dive watch hit the scene, and instead of doing a reissue for the third time or making it so limited that only Tokyo boutique managers get one, they’re actually adding this GMT diver to the regular lineup. That, alone, is worth a raised eyebrow.
If you’ve been following Seiko’s recent higher-end Prospex releases, especially the mechanical GMT divers, this one falls right into that trajectory. It keeps the chunky 42mm stainless steel case and 300m water resistance we saw on the 1968 Hi-Beat homage, but it dials the whole thing back a notch—color-wise, at least. Gone is the deep ocean blue and those flashier gold highlights. In their place is a subtle silver-white dial paired with red accents on the seconds and GMT hands. It feels more wearable. Less Instagram, more everyday.
Now, let me get one thing out of the way: yes, £1,600 is a serious chunk of change. And yes, it’s competing in a very crowded space filled with other great alternatives. But as far as Seiko’s diver GMTs go, this one might be the most approachable I’ve seen in a while—both in aesthetic and long-term availability. This isn’t a gimmicky, limited-edition colorway that’ll disappear before you’ve even had your coffee. It’s just a clean, straightforward execution.
And it really is attractive. So much so that it’s made me pay closer attention to what Seiko’s been doing in this category lately—something I haven’t always done willingly. The Caliber 6R54 ticks inside, giving you that GMT hand functionality, and they even threw in that excellent six-step adjustable clasp. This is the first time we’ve seen it outside of a limited edition, and honestly, it should’ve been standard years ago.
If I had one gripe—and it’s only personal preference—it’s the bezel. As much as I respect the diver heritage angle here, I would’ve loved to see Seiko lean in with a traditional 24-hour GMT bezel. Something to make this a true travel watch, not just a dive watch that does time zones. Still, I get why they didn’t.
If you’re shopping in this price range and you’re after a GMT with real underwater chops (and a colorway that won’t make your coworkers ask if it glows in the dark), this one should be on your radar. I’m hoping Seiko uses this as a launchpad for more permanent, no-nonsense GMTs in the future—maybe even one without the dive bezel.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.
Does this watch have a hardlex crystal? If so, it’s overpriced.