Oris is one of those brands that we love to talk about here at TBWS, simply for the fact that the team always seems happy to just do their own thing. This year, instead of doing something big and flashy, Oris has moved to update their vast catalog of Oris Aquis Date models for 2024. It’s a key collection and this kind of care ensures that the watches don’t become stale, as Oris aims to put out the best that they possibly can. The Aquis is just a great, sturdy dive watch from an independent brand and these new models are available in 43.5mm, 41.5mm, and 36.5mm case sizes with a bunch of dial color options and a choice to go with the in-house Oris Caliber 400 on the 43.5mm version. Let’s try to wrap our heads around this.
Overall it looks like many of the changes are meant to streamline the look of the case. The lugs and the crown guards have been redesigned and to me, it looks like the case isn’t so … geometric anymore. Smoother lines, if you ask me. The bezel has also been reproportioned, according to Oris, and this looks to fit much better overall with the various dial sizes. Additionally, the three-link bracelet has been redesigned to allow for a better, more tapered fit on the wrist. These all seem like very minor things on the surface but they come together in a nicely updated watch for 2024.
On the movement side of things, Oris offers the Oris 733 (based on a Sellita movement) with all three of the sizes. However, if you want the in-house Oris Caliber 400 with its 120 hours of power reserve, you’re going to have to go with the larger 43.5mm case sizing. I appreciate the options but if it were me, I’d probably opt to prioritize wearability and value.
Besides, I’m personally trending away from in-house movements in general, so I’m glad Oris didn’t completely cut out the Sellita-based movement option. You can get a mother-of-pearl dial on the 36.5mm version along with Upcycle dial option or a black dial. Move up to the 43.5mm or 41.5mm sizes and your options expand to include blue and green dials but not the MOP.
Another quick note about the 36.5mm version; if you go with that one, the bezel insert design is a little different. The elapsed time scale is a simplified design, with fewer graduations and no Arabic numerals. In some ways, it makes that version look a little dressier, especially if you pair it with the MOP dial. That combo along with the 41.5mm Upcycle dial might be my two favorites out of the bunch. But I’d still find it really hard to choose one out of all these combinations.
I’m grateful that Oris put in the effort to refresh the Oris Aquis Date collection for 2024. For a while, it seemed like the pilot models were getting all the cool new tech and updates. These are still very important watches for Oris and they still serve as an entry point toward luxury watches at this price bracket. I’m even more confident recommending these to folks curious about breaking into this price range. Speaking of price, it starts at CHF 2,200 for any version featuring the Cal 733 on rubber. The Caliber 400 version starts at CHF 3,600 and the most expensive combo is CHF 3,750, if you pair the Caliber 400 with an Upcycle dial. Check out all the possible combinations on the official Oris website.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.