Omega has added two new references to the Speedmaster Professional lineup, introducing what folks are calling the Speedmaster Professional “Black and White.” The release consists of a familiar pairing. One model in steel, one in 18k Moonshine Gold. Both are manually wound Moonwatches built around the existing 3861 platform, but distinguished by a reverse panda dial executed with a noticeably more luxurious finish than the standard production model.
Once you get past the announcement headline, this is a very specific kind of update. Nothing structural changes. The case remains 42mm in diameter and 13.54mm thick. The movement is the same manually wound 3861, visible through a sapphire caseback. Sapphire crystal up front as well, no hesalite option. The bracelet is the current Speedmaster design that’s been with us for a few years now. This is not Omega rethinking the Speedmaster Professional. It’s Omega fine-tuning how it wants that watch to feel.
I come at this as someone who already owns a modern Speedmaster Professional with the 3861, so my reference point is locked in. I know what the current Moonwatch experience is, and I know what it costs today. Which makes the real question here a pretty straightforward one. Is this worth it?
The answer hinges almost entirely on the dial. The Black and White models use a lacquered black base dial with lacquered white subdials framed in rhodium plating. Compared to the matte black dial of the standard Speedmaster Professional, this is a clear move upmarket. The watch reads glossier, cleaner, and more deliberate in its finishing. It feels designed to sit a little closer to the luxury side of the catalog than the tool-watch mythology that has traditionally defined the Speedmaster.
If that’s your preference, these watches make sense. Especially the Moonshine Gold version, which leans fully into that polished, premium identity. There’s no attempt here to disguise what it is. This is a Speedmaster that’s meant to feel elevated.
Where things get more complicated is pricing. The regular steel Speedmaster Professional with sapphire now sits at $9,000. The new Black and White steel version comes in at $10,400 with the full gold version priced at $49,300. Mechanically and dimensionally, nothing separates the two. The premium is entirely about dial execution and perceived refinement.
That puts the decision squarely on the buyer. If the lacquered reverse panda dial genuinely adds something meaningful to your enjoyment of the watch, the jump may feel justified. If you’re already wrestling with where Speedmaster pricing has landed, it’s a harder argument to make. From my perspective, this release feels like a logical extension of Omega’s current strategy. More choice, more polish, higher prices. The Black and White models fit neatly into that arc. Whether they earn a place on your wrist depends on how much that visual upgrade really matters to you. Personally, I’ll be hanging on to my standard 3861 “sapphire sandwich” model.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.