It’s no secret. I’m a Doxa fan and have been for a while now. My Sub 300 limited edition still gets regular wrist time and I don’t see that changing anytime soon. So when Doxa announces something new in the Sub lineup, I’m paying attention. Today, the brand has introduced the Sub 200 II, a refinement of its most accessible dive watch that brings new dial treatments, a slimmer profile, and updated strap options. Whether or not this particular version connects with me personally is a different story, but I think there’s a lot to unpack here.
The Sub 200 has always occupied interesting territory for Doxa. It sits below the more heritage-driven Sub 300 and serves as the entry point into the brand’s lineup for a lot of collectors. The Sub 200 II doesn’t radically depart from that formula. It retains the cushion-style case, now at 44mm in diameter instead of 42mm. But this version trims the thickness down to 12.8mm, roughly a millimeter thinner than before. According to Doxa, short lugs and compact proportions give it a wrist presence closer to a 42mm watch. I’d love to verify that claim in person, but at first glance the proportions do look tighter in the press images.
The biggest visual change here is the introduction of fumé dials across the permanent Sub lineup. That’s a first. Buyers can choose from black, gray, blue, red, and green, each with a gradient that darkens toward the edges and a subtle moiré texture. There’s also a full black DLC-coated version paired with what Doxa is calling a “Redcoral” dial. That’s probably my favorite out of the bunch. I think the dial experimentation is the most compelling part of this release. The Sub lineup has leaned pretty heavily on its classic colorways for a long time, and it’s nice to see Doxa open up the design language a bit without abandoning what makes their dials recognizable.
Inside, the Sub 200 II runs a Sellita SW200 automatic with roughly 38 hours of power reserve. It’s a straightforward three-hand layout with a date window at 3 o’clock. Nothing unusual there. The watch is rated to 200m of water resistance and topped with a domed “glass box” sapphire crystal, with a unidirectional bezel using an aluminum insert. Doxa is also offering two new strap options: a stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet with a vintage dive watch vibe, and a redesigned textured rubber strap. No traditional bracelet option at launch, which I’m curious to see how people react to.
Pricing starts at $1,690, with the watches available now through Doxa retailers and the brand’s website. To be honest, I’m a little torn on this one. I can appreciate what the Doxa Sub 200 II is trying to do, and I think the fumé dials could pull in buyers who didn’t totally connect with the previous generation. That said, I’m not sure this is the Doxa that gets me personally excited the way my Sub 300 does. Maybe that’s the point. Maybe this is Doxa broadening its reach rather than deepening its appeal to existing fans. I guess we’ll find out.
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Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.