There was a time when fumé dials were reserved for the kind of watches you only saw on Hodinkee auctions or the wrist of some collector hotshot in Geneva. For the rest of us, the closest thing to an integrated sports watch was probably something from the Fossil kiosk at the mall. But things have changed—fast. And I have to admit, the fact that we’re now casually talking about $495 automatics with gradient dials and rose gold accents from Citizen… well, that feels awesome.
The Tsuyosa line’s been a hit since its launch, carving out a niche for folks who want that mix of retro case lines, automatic guts, and the kind of bracelet that actually hugs the wrist instead of pulling hairs out. This new limited edition—called the “Time Slip,” though Citizen’s not spilling the beans on the name—adds a bit of upscale flair that I didn’t think I needed until I saw the dial.
It’s the same 37mm Tsuyosa we got earlier this year, but the dial is where things get interesting. Think smoked grey-black gradient with a granular texture that leans more toward high-end enamel mimicry than stamped sunburst. It’s not pretending to be a Moser, but it’s definitely watched a few YouTube videos on how to dress like one.
The rose-gold accents push the whole thing into unexpected territory. Printed minute track, logo, indices, even the hands—all dipped in a tone that manages to feel luxe without crossing into tacky. It walks the line, and for something under $500, that’s no small feat.
Everything else is Tsuyosa standard: automatic cal. 8210 with a display caseback, 50 meters of water resistance, and a sapphire crystal over the dial. If you’ve worn one before, you know what to expect—solid comfort, wrist-friendly proportions, and a bracelet that doesn’t make you want to immediately throw it on a NATO (though I wouldn’t stop you).
At $495, it’s twenty bucks more than the regular 37mm model. For a dial that actually feels special and finishes that flirt with the high end, that’s a trade I’d make all day. Just don’t get too caught up in the “limited edition” tag—Citizen’s making 8,000 of these, so if you miss out, it won’t be because they were hard to find. It’ll be because you got distracted by whatever Seiko’s cooking up next week.
Still, if your collection needs a bit of smoke and shimmer without the guilt, this is one of the easiest yeses I’ve seen all year.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.