There’s a version of this piece that’s just a rant. I’ve actively tried to avoid writing it for a while now, mostly because I didn’t want to come across as bitter. But after three personal experiences with in-house movements that had no business leaving the factory in the condition they did, I think the conversation is worth having.

Let me be clear about something before we get into it. I’m not here to argue that in-house movements are categorically bad. Spend time with a JLC, a rock-solid Citizen, or look at what Rolex has built over decades of refinement, and that argument falls apart pretty quickly. What I’m questioning is something narrower and, I think, more useful: whether “in-house” has shifted from a quality signal into a marketing line, and whether we’re paying a premium for a story that hasn’t been fully earned yet.

The issue here is that “in-house” isn’t always exactly a regulated term. It can describe fully integrated manufacturing under one roof, or a more fragmented process where development, production, and assembly are split across partners. Most brands land somewhere in between. That doesn’t automatically make the watches worse, but it does make the label harder to take at face value.

Part of this shift didn’t happen over night. As access to third-party movements tightened and brands started looking for ways to differentiate, “in-house” began to carry weight as a positioning tool alongside its engineering implications, and that shift has influenced how these watches are presented and priced.

When Experience Starts to Contradict the Narrative

My first real moment of doubt came with a Tudor Black Bay GMT, a watch similar to the one we reviewed here. If you followed the release closely, you probably know exactly where this is going. The well-documented “date window issue” that affected a meaningful number of early examples wasn’t a minor quirk. This was a movement problem in a watch that Tudor had positioned, with considerable confidence, around the prestige of its own manufacture caliber. Tudor handled the situation, to their credit, but the experience left a mark. A watch at that price point, with that kind of positioning behind it, shouldn’t be shipping with a movement defect.

I gave Tudor the benefit of the doubt after that. These things happen, even to good manufacturers, and one bad experience doesn’t define a brand. Then my Black Bay 58 movement seized. No impact, no trauma, no explanation. It just stopped in a way that movements aren’t supposed to stop in watches that haven’t been abused, and that one was harder to rationalize. Like I mentioned on the podcast I, hilariously, went to bed, saw it running, and woke up to a watch that wouldn’t run no matter how much I wound it up. If you think I’m nuts, check r/Tudor on Reddit. You’ll find many similar cases, even though plenty of Tudor owners have reported positive experiences in their testing and ownership.

The IWC Pilot Chronograph Spitfire was where I stopped rationalizing altogether. One day I realized the chronograph would not advance past 9 minutes, which is not a subtle issue in a watch built around timing functionality. That was less than a year after picking it up from an AD. In a watch carrying a price tag that demands to be taken seriously, a core function simply didn’t work, and at that point the pattern was difficult to ignore. By the way, this was not a quick and easy servicing process.

What makes this harder to dismiss is that none of these watches were positioned as early-stage efforts or experimental platforms. They were sold as finished products, with pricing that reflects confidence in both execution and the narrative surrounding the movement. When that execution falls short, I think it raises a more uncomfortable question about what exactly, the buyer (I), was paying for.

It’s Not All That Bad

At the same time, not every experience I’ve had points in the same direction. One of the more expensive watches I’ve owned during this stretch, a Panerai PAM777, has been uneventful in the best possible way. That watch was announced back in 2018, when SIHH was still around, and a big part of its positioning centered on the move from an ETA-based caliber to the in-house P.6000. On paper, it checks the same boxes that should make me more cautious given everything else I’ve experienced. In practice, it has simply worked.

That introduces a complication I wasn’t expecting. There has been ongoing debate about how “in-house” the P.6000 actually is, depending on how strictly you define the term. I’m not in a position to settle that debate, and I don’t think it needs a definitive answer here. What matters is that the watch has been reliable in a way that some of my more clearly defined manufacture pieces have not. There’s an uncomfortable possibility in that. The closer a brand gets to controlling every part of the process, the more pressure there is to get everything right, and not every brand seems equally prepared for that responsibility.

What Brands Gain From This

Here’s what I keep coming back to. The brands with the longest track records in genuine manufacture movements aren’t the ones generating these stories. The issues tend to cluster around brands that have moved way too fast into in-house production more recently, treating it as a product decision alongside an engineering one. Developing a manufacture caliber is genuinely difficult, and it requires time, iteration, and a willingness to delay releases until the watch performs as intended. Some brands have committed to that process, while others appear to be accelerating it. I was reminded of that recently when Christopher Ward described the development of its CW-002 movement as a “labour of pain, not a labour of love” over three years, which at least acknowledges the reality of how demanding that work can be.

There’s also a practical side to this that’s worth acknowledging. Developing in-house movements gives brands more control over production, margins, and long-term positioning. Relying on third-party suppliers introduces constraints, especially as access to those movements becomes more limited. From that perspective, the move toward in-house development makes sense.

The difficulty shows up in how that transition is communicated. Building a manufacture caliber is a long-term investment that pays off through refinement and reliability over time. Marketing operates on a shorter timeline and tends to emphasize what is new or proprietary. When those timelines drift apart, the product can end up carrying expectations that the engineering has not fully caught up to yet.

Maybe It’s Just Me?

I also had to check my own expectations here. Part of the appeal, whether I admitted it at the time or not, was the idea of owning something “in-house.” There’s a perceived step up there that suggests a more complete or legitimate product. That expectation carries weight, but it only holds if the underlying watch meets it. Otherwise, you’re left holding on to the narrative more than the watch itself.

It’s also worth asking how much of this expectation is coming from us. Somewhere along the way, “in-house” became shorthand for legitimacy in the enthusiast space. It’s an easy box to check when comparing watches, and an even easier one for brands to lead with. That shorthand only works if it continues to correlate with real-world performance. When it doesn’t, the label starts to carry more weight than the thing it’s describing.

That creates a feedback loop. Brands emphasize in-house development because it resonates with buyers, and buyers continue to prioritize it because it is presented as a marker of progress. Engineering progress doesn’t always move at the same pace as messaging, and that gap is where some of these experiences begin to show up.

This is where the conversation gets more practical and a little uncomfortable. At some point, you start asking whether in-house movements are worth the premium we pay, the increased service costs, and the underlying uneasiness that can come with buying from a brand that is still relatively new to developing its own calibers.

Consider my Doxa, which I reviewed here. I’ve had it for almost ten years. It runs an off-the-shelf ETA movement that happens to be COSC-certified, and I almost never think about it. It has never been serviced. I might service it at some point, or I might not. There’s no urgency to that decision, and more importantly, no anxiety tied to it. The watch just continues to do its job consistently without asking anything from me beyond the occasional glance at the time.

That experience creates a very different baseline for what ownership feels like. When you start looking at newer in-house movements, especially from brands still building out that capability, the thought process shifts. You start factoring in long-term serviceability, parts availability, cost, and the possibility that early-generation issues may not fully surface until years down the line. Hell, I think most of the time these newer, problematic in-house movements aren’t even repaired. They’re likely just fully replaced. Even if none of those concerns materialize, they are part of the ownership experience in a way that they simply aren’t with something more established.

Then there’s the other side of this, which complicates the argument in a different way. Consider the Seiko 5 SSK003. That line was introduced in 2022 and brought an in-house GMT movement into Seiko’s most accessible collection. It virtually reshaped the affordable GMT space almost immediately. I don’t find myself worrying about that watch in the same way. Seiko has been building its own movements for decades, and that history carries real weight for them. There’s a level of trust built into the purchase that doesn’t rely on positioning language.

I Want To Believe

Proven, accessible in-house options exist, and so do reliable third-party alternatives that have been refined over long periods of time. Both can deliver a stable, low-friction ownership experience. When those options are on the table, it becomes harder to justify taking a gamble on something that is still finding its footing, especially when the cost of that gamble is built directly into the price.

Word of advice: if a brand is leading with its movement as the headline feature, it’s worth taking a step back and asking how long that movement has actually been in the wild and/or development. Not in prototypes or press materials, but on wrists, over time, in conditions that expose weaknesses as much as strengths.

None of this means you should avoid every watch with a recently developed in-house movement. Again, that would be an overcorrection. There are still brands doing this well, and there are real advantages when it’s done properly. But it is worth asking, the next time a brand leads with “our own manufacture caliber” as a headline feature, whether that claim is backed by a long track record of engineering credibility or whether it reflects a newer positioning decision.

The price difference between a watch with a solid third-party movement and one with a freshly minted in-house caliber can be significant. At some point, this becomes less of an abstract preference and more of a practical decision. You’re either paying for engineering that has been proven over time, or for a narrative that is still in its early stages.

All that said, I still believe in you, Tudor. I really hope you’ll win me back some day.

4 thoughts on “Are In-House Movements Overrated? Lessons from 2 Tudors and an IWC”

  1. The point of in-house movements is to capture after sales revenues. Full stop. Well, maybe not, marketing has an outsized influence in the industry, and they have their fingerprints all over this.

    Swatch Group started the wave, and has been, I think, pretty transparent (or at least obvious) about it. If the movement is in-house (or even “in-house”), then they control parts and service literature. A watchmaker that can’t get parts can’t service a movement; even a simple service could have something go wrong requiring repair, and repair either means parts or extremely expensive fabrication. Meanwhile, if the OEM controls everything, you MUST send the watch to the mothership for a more expensive, less convenient, and far more costly service every few years. The in-house marketing is mostly that. Marketing to sell watches, and cover up that you’re getting a far more expensive, inconvenient, and time consuming service than just popping down to your friendly local watchmaker.

    In terms of short term profit increases, it’s a win. Eventually people will (I hope) wise up, and realize that this is absolute BS. They’re killing off watchmaking as a profession AND giving mechanical watches a bad name at the same time by making ownership unnecessarily expensive and inconvenient for no actual gain. Hello tacky smart watches!

    Reply
    • All good points. Like I said, I’m not even sure movements go back for servicing half the time. There are probably many cases where folks just get a full-on movements swap.

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  2. My Oris caliber 400-2 was a mistake. Oh well, live and learn. It’s a nice watch and I’ll milk the 10 year warranty as long as I can.

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    • Damn, Matt. Sorry to hear that. I think the big thing here is taking a step back and realizing how much ownership can be simplified. The in-house thing isn’t totally unattractive to me. But, like I mentioned, the thought process behind making the purchase needs to be weighed on heavily.

      Reply

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