Seiko has another European-exclusive Prospex Speedtimer, and the formula should be familiar by now. The new HBJ008 uses the existing 39mm solar chronograph platform with a dark blue dial, black subdials, bright orange accents, and a brown rally-style leather strap included alongside the steel bracelet. Production is limited to 4,000 pieces. I think the dial is easily the reason to pay attention here.
Seiko calls the color “Midnight Riviera Blue” and says the watch takes inspiration from classic European cars. To me, the automotive connection feels pretty loose. I see more vintage chronograph than vintage car, with the black registers and orange hands pulling from the broad visual language of 1960s and ’70s racing watches. That’s perfectly fine. The HBJ008 doesn’t need much of a story beyond that.
In my opinion, this is one of the more convincing color combinations Seiko has put on the current Solar Speedtimer. The dark blue gives the dial some character without getting too loud, while the orange hands bring just enough color into a layout that can become visually crowded. Add the steel tachymeter bezel and brown rally strap, and the whole thing lands somewhere in the general universe of vintage Heuer, Universal Genève, and Daytona-era chronographs. None of those references are exact, and I don’t think they need to be.
Mechanically, there isn’t much new to discuss. The stainless steel case measures 39mm wide, 13.3mm thick, and 45.5mm lug-to-lug. You get a curved sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, LumiBrite, 100 meters of water resistance, and Seiko’s V192 solar quartz chronograph caliber.
The V192 provides a 60-minute chronograph measured in 1/5-second increments, along with a 24-hour display, date, and power reserve indication. A full charge provides roughly six months of operation, and Seiko rates the movement to ±15 seconds per month. All of which brings me to the part I have more trouble with.
My take is that we’re getting pretty deep into the pricing of this platform for what is primarily a new color treatment. The additional leather strap adds something tangible, and some buyers will care about the 4,000-piece production run. Still, neither changes the underlying watch. That puts a lot of pressure on the dial to justify the premium.
For me, it comes surprisingly close. I think this is a better-looking Speedtimer than many of the standard variations, and the design has enough personality that I can understand someone waiting specifically for this version. In my opinion, though, €880 (just a hair under $1,000 USD) makes the decision harder than the classic-car story makes it sound. The HBJ008 is an appealing variation of a proven Seiko chronograph, with a dial that does most of the heavy lifting. Whether that dial is worth paying limited-edition money for is the question Seiko leaves us with.
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Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.