At this point, most of us know what a Tissot PRX looks like. That familiar look makes this new white mother-of-pearl version interesting because the dial messes with a formula that’s become almost instantly recognizable. The new PRX 40mm Powermatic 80, reference T137.407.11.111.00, takes a dial treatment previously offered on the smaller 35mm model and drops it into the larger automatic PRX. On paper, we might think that sounds like another straightforward expansion of an already enormous collection. Visually, I think there’s a little more going on here.
Mother-of-pearl brings an irregular, reflective quality to a watch built around straight lines, repeating texture, and sharp transitions. The PRX has always been fairly architectural to me, from its integrated bracelet to the shape of its case and applied markers. Against all of that structure, the shifting white dial introduces something less predictable. And for a watch we’ve seen in seemingly every color imaginable, a little unpredictability goes a long way.
Tissot hasn’t changed the underlying PRX much here. The stainless-steel case measures 40mm across and 10.93mm thick, with 100 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal with an antireflective coating on its underside. The integrated steel bracelet uses a butterfly clasp with push-buttons and Tissot’s quick-release system, which also opens the door to the brand’s compatible strap options.
Inside is the familiar Powermatic 80 automatic movement (a movement I’ve come to love), visible through the display caseback. It provides up to 80 hours of power reserve and uses a Nivachron balance spring for increased resistance to magnetic fields. These are known quantities within the automatic PRX lineup, and there doesn’t appear to be a technical story hiding beneath the new dial.
That’s fine. The PRX has grown into a broad collection spanning multiple sizes, movements, materials, and dial treatments. Another configuration doesn’t necessarily signal that Tissot is stretching the concept too far. Successful watch families tend to expand, and the PRX has reached the point where it functions as a platform within Tissot’s catalog.
What stands out here is how much character Tissot can extract from that platform without changing its basic architecture. Mother-of-pearl can lean dressy or jewelry-adjacent depending on the execution. Here, the textured surface and hard geometry surrounding it keep that quality in check. The result, at least from the available images, looks more visually interesting than the standard PRX without losing the design underneath.
Then there’s the price. The figure isn’t especially surprising for a current Powermatic 80 PRX, and Tissot hasn’t attached an obvious premium to the mother-of-pearl treatment. However, $850 puts the watch into competitive territory. Buyers have plenty of automatic options around that number, and the PRX’s long-standing reputation as an accessible enthusiast favorite shouldn’t make the price irrelevant.
For this particular version, the dial may be enough to make that conversation interesting again. It gives an extremely familiar watch a different personality while leaving the parts people already recognize alone. The remaining question is how well the effect translates outside product photography. Mother-of-pearl changes considerably with lighting and viewing angle, and combining that natural variation with the PRX’s existing texture could look restrained in some conditions and much busier in others.
That’s something we’d want to see in person. For now, though, Tissot has found a relatively simple way to make the 40mm PRX feel unfamiliar again. Very cool, Tissot. Now make it titanium 😉
The Tissot PRX 40mm Powermatic 80 Mother-of-Pearl, reference T137.407.11.111.00, is priced at $850.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.