Seiko has been methodical about rolling out its 145th anniversary limited editions, and the Prospex collection was always going to get its moment. The brand recently announced two new divers, the HBC005 and HBB001, both carrying the silver and blue colorway that’s become something of a visual thread through the entire anniversary program. One sits closer to the brand’s heritage roots, the other leans into its more contemporary identity, and the pricing gap between them is significant enough that they’re really aimed at different buyers.
The HBC005 is the more interesting of the two, at least for me. It’s built on the 62MAS-inspired reissue platform, a design with modern origins in watches like the SPB143 that has been quietly refined over the past couple of years. The case comes in at 40mm in diameter and 13mm thick, with a 46.4mm lug-to-lug span and 300 meters of water resistance. The 6R55 movement inside offers a 72-hour power reserve, which is a meaningful spec at this price point.
The dial is silver with a subtle brushed finish, rectangular lume-filled hour markers, and a blue seconds hand matched to a blue aluminum bezel insert. Seiko kept the dial clean, with no limited edition callout beyond the standard wordmark and Prospex branding. That restraint works in its favor. The HBC005 is limited to 4,000 pieces at $1,400.
The HBB001 is built on the Samurai platform, which draws its own loyal crowd and has also seen some recent updates. The case is now 41.7mm in diameter, 12.3mm thick, and 49.5mm lug-to-lug, and while the newer Samurai has a slightly softer appearance than earlier generations, it still reads much sharper and more angular than the 62MAS-inspired design.
The silver dial here skews a shade or two darker than the HBC005, with fencepost-style hour markers and a dark blue and gray aluminum bezel insert. The movement is the 4R35, offering a 40-hour power reserve, which is adequate but noticeably less impressive than what’s inside the HBC005. At $595, it’s priced accordingly, and with a run of 9,999 pieces, “limited” is doing some heavy lifting here.
Both watches arrive in June, which is when the rest of the anniversary lineup is expected to reach authorized dealers. For anyone tracking the full rollout, this feels like a great pairing. The 62MAS platform for the heritage crowd, the Samurai for collectors who want something that reads a little more modern on the wrist. Of the two, the HBC005 is the one I’d want to spend more time with. That platform has a way of growing on you, and the silver and blue execution looks sharp.
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Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.