We’ve always had a soft spot for the HydroConquest here at TBWS. It’s one of the Swiss divers we consistently recommend to anyone looking for something awesome in the lower four-figure range, and Longines has done a solid job of keeping the collection relevant over the years. Now, almost two decades after the original launch, the brand is rolling out what looks like the most significant update the HydroConquest has ever received. At first glance, this feels like Longines finally stepping into a more modern design language while keeping the value prop intact.
The big visual change here is the unidirectional ceramic bezel, which Longines says was inspired by its own Ultra-Chron Diver. It gives the watch a noticeably more technical look compared to the outgoing version. The dial has been redesigned as well, and buyers will have their pick of lacquered blue, black, and green options, along with a frosted blue sunray finish that’s only available through e-commerce. I have to say, based on the press photos, that frosted blue paired with the dark blue ceramic bezel insert looks really nice.
Size options remain practical. There’s a 39mm variant and a 42mm variant, which covers a lot of ground for different wrist preferences. Inside, the Longines Caliber L888.5 automatic provides 72 hours of power reserve courtesy of a silicon balance spring. You also get 300m of water resistance and what Longines describes as strong magnetic resistance. The date window is still there, which will annoy the purists, but honestly, most people buying a watch in this segment want one.
One of the more interesting additions is the Milanese mesh bracelet option. That’s a callback I can appreciate, and it’s been gaining traction ever since Omega brought it back on the Seamaster 300M a few years ago. The standard H-link bracelet also gets a double-folding safety clasp with micro-adjustment, which is a welcome touch at this price point.
I have to confess, the 39mm Longines HydroConquest case on mesh is the combination that caught my eye immediately. Something about those proportions paired with the Milanese accent just seems to work, and I’d bet it wears like a dream in person.
Pricing lands between $2,200 and $2,400 depending on configuration. For a Swiss-made diver from a brand with Longines’ heritage, that’s competitive territory, and a lot of it comes down to scale. Longines reportedly produces around 1.5 million watches per year, which is roughly triple Omega’s output. That kind of volume helps keep core models accessible while other brands continue drifting upmarket.
It’s great to see the Longines HydroConquest still getting this level of attention from Longines. This is a collection that fills the gap for people who want a legitimate Swiss diver without crossing into the $3K-plus range, and this update suggests Longines isn’t taking that position for granted. Whether the ceramic bezel and mesh bracelet feel as good on the wrist as they look in photos, though, is something we’ll have to find out for ourselves.
Co-Founder & Senior Editor
Michael Peñate is an American writer, photographer, and podcaster based in Seattle, Washington. His work typically focuses on the passage of time and the tools we use to connect with that very journey. From aviation to music and travel, his interests span a multitude of disciplines that often intersect with the world of watches – and the obsessive culture behind collecting them.